Ok should I buy powerslot/powerstop rotors....stillen rotors.......or sure stop, they are going to be cross drilled and/or slotted so just as far as construction and materials who makes the best?

 

This is going to be ugly

I use powerstop crossdrilled, yeah.... I went there.

 

use any that you listed, but blanks.

drilling jsut weakens then and you WILL have cracking, and there is less friction area.
so unless you just want the "look" (if thats your thing) then go for the drill/slotted.


but to keep them nice whatever you get, make sure htey are zinc coated so they stay looking pretty.

 

I know people running drilled and have no cracks... I think alot of people just give cookie cutter answers that other people have posted before/told them to avoid getting into specifics. (not xride) These posts do get old after a while, but post what you know, and not what you've heard.

It makes no sense that drilled would crack because of less surface area and the slotted and drilled that have even less surface area would'nt.

 

they dont crack cause of less surface area.

they crack becuase the holes were not ment to be there, i changed the structural integrity of the rotor.

I know several (i'd say 10 or so cars) people that are/have run slotted and drilled, ALL of them that had drilled crack, EVERY SINGLE LAST ONE OF THEM, excluding rears.
these are on street cars.


slotted shouldnt run into the cracking problem.

but all that does is remove the frickion area from the pad. sure its only like 3 or 4 % but I would like that extra 3 or 4%

 

slots werent meant to be there either, and they are basically gouges in the surface of the roter, therfore not in the original desighn. They also reduce the surface area,and would effect the rigidity. Especially combined with the drilling.

Slotted and drilled rotors are sent from god, and just drilled are risky, cheaply made pieces of poo? Eh, something is wrong here I think.

Im just saying X, that alot of people love the D&S'd and bawk at the CD'd. It doesn't make any sense that magically the combined things would be so much better.

I do agree that, just slotted might not crack, but it depends on the quality of the roter. And as for the front roters, I will get back to you later on what mine do.

Xride, when this cracking occurs, what is the general effect? A sense of warpage or chunks falling off? J/W, because noone I know (street cars) have cracks.

 

What I dont know what your saying?

I will spell it out.

a rotor blank will provide excelent braking with good pads.

just slotted, well you not going all the way through and not changing the structure of it much, know a couple people with htem and they are doing fine.

drilling w or w/o slots, well your drilling holes into a peice of metal that is subjected to large amounts of heat and stress. over the heating and cooling it stresses the rotor, when holes are drilled it creates a piint thats weak, these points are the holes that are closest to the outside, this is where the cracks start, they go from teh hole to the edge of the rotor, if this continutes you start to get cracks from the holes that are more inner to the next hole.




New point,
slotting will not help performance, it will reduce it, as there is less friction area.
drilling does the same thing, reductes friction area.

then your going to say "but porshe comes with them stock"
those holes are cast into the rotor, and they have vents that force air through them to cool them, on a fbody they do nothing, unless you add vents and prove that they actualy force enough air to do anything.


when they crack, well one, they look bad, it feels like its kinda warped, but it makes noise and probably wears the pad even faster.

hope this makes sence, and clears up some confustion, cause I have no idea what you last post is talking about....

 

I was arguing with other people's points, and I was agreeing with you, and you preached to the quire. I just asked you what the symptoms of the cracking were.

But now that I know.. where can I buy these vents for the brakes I keep hearing about on here, might be worth an investment to protect my 100+ doller a pop roters.

And remember, tomm. I need pictures!

 

other people? its the question and you and I


buy the vents.... umm I guess most parts would be the hardware store
I cant find the write up right now.
but its basical a hole in each side in the air damn with a flex tubing attached to it (about 3" pipe) and then rought it so that nothing interfears with it, and get it as close to the rotor as you can without it touching.
most people make a braket for this from tin.

 

Cross drilled rotors are fine for street use, where you see them cracking is under heavy repeated stops, such as on a roadcourse. When you see track cars with crossdrilled rotors, almost all of them are using rotors that have the holes cast into like the Porsche rotors Race cars use cross drilled rotors primarily as a means to reduce unsprung weight, not for any kind of cooling. The slots that are so popular now do serve a purpose, but again it's mainly for track use and has nothing to do with cooling. Instead, they help to clean the pads so that there is always an even fresh pad surface for braking. Also, since there is such little material removed for slotting, it really doesn't reduce the heat sink capacity of the rotor much at all. For street use, they won't do much other than help wear out your pads quicker (although with most street pads this won't be real noticeable). So, with all this in mind, if you are only interested in street use, there is no reason why you can't go with crossdrilled rotors. They will look cool, but they won't offer you any better stopping power. If, on the other hand, you want the best stopping power possible, go with blank or slotted rotors.

 

Thanks for your informative post firehawk, I feel much better now.

 

The other purpose of slots is to remove gas buildup between the pad and rotor during hard use. The holes can accomplish this also. As long as the rotor was designed with slots/holes, it really shouldn't be an issue.

 

That is a big misconception that is completely false with modern pads (made within the last 10-15 years). Modern pads do not outgas to any measureable degree, and do not need slots/holes to remove gases.

 

as already said that is FALSE.


As long as the rotor was CAST with the holes it will be OK.

 

hey guys........wow all that advice was pretty helpful...........i wanted to get some sick looking cross drilled but I ended up checking tire rack while i had my order ready to check out on lmperformance........and i saw that they carried brembo blanks.........brembo is one of the top names in braking.........and so as much as i wanted CD'd or Slotted the difference in price was close to half, and I got some hawk pads with it. So I can say that I do have a pretty sick setup, and u cant go wrong with Brembo, plus in the end I will probably have better stopping power (although i probably wont notice the difference lol) with the brembo blanks. My next mod next weekend is catback, but with the money I saved Im going to go ahead and get a pro 5.0 shifter, so i figured that was a much better place to put the money. Thanks again for all your advice though, and at the end of the day Ill still have some Brembo decals! (lol dont worry not a ricer, they're not goin on the car)