Product: 1LE 32mm Hollow Sway Bar and Energy Suspension Polyurethane bushings and endlinks.

Price: 1LE Sway Bar - $29.99 (Ebay)
Polyurethane - $25-30 (Summit)

Install: Install was relatively simple, basically unbolt the old stuff and bolt on the new. Pretty easy. You'll need 10, 13, 14mm sockets and rachet along with 13,14mm wrenches. I put the car up on jackstands. Your probably just going to want to break off the stock end link bolts like I did to save time and energy. I did the bushings first then the end links. You'll also have to take off a plate on the drivers side, which is borrowing a stud on the sway bar bushing. I put the bushings in first on the 1LE then worked the endlinks into place and tightened from the inside out.

Performance: I noticed pulling out of my drive that the car handled better. The normal excess body roll was elminated feeling like the car was on rails. I made my way first to a 55mph curvey state road and then a unmarked curvey back road. On the way I noticed the car seemed to control better at speed. The entire front end was tighter overall and even seemed to brake more effectively. Once I got into it on these two roads it was evident that my time, money and effort was well worth it. The car had a new found spirit around curves. I took curves that usually required speeds around 45 to make at around 70. It finally seemed like I was utilizing the the performance I paid for in my GS-D3's.

Conclusion: Before I get people getting on here and saying you should have got a 35mm from Strano hold your horses. I'll be the first to admit that a 35mm bar probably would handle better. But I firmly believe that one modification isnt right for everyone. It depends on a persons whats or needs for the car. I wanted a moderate handling improvement for a minimal amount of investment. I wanted a 35mm Hollow for sometime, but my budget wouldnt allow. Also I am more concerned about engine performance than handling performance. So I didnt want the extra weight of a solid bar up front. I do think that its the best suspension modification I have done so far, and definately think its worth the $55 investment. If you want max performance get Strano's stuff, I am sure its great. But if you want a moderate improvement but dont have the budget to go wild on a sway bar, seriously consider the 1LE 32mm, its well worth the money in my eyes.

-Dustin-

 

Now I just have to get mine installed, lol

 

I used the 1le front swaybar with same endlinks. I too was very impressed. Accurate review. It really does help a lot and i don't think the strano 35mm is for everyone either. The 1le is perfect for me. I got mine about the same price as you as well.

 

A 32 is a very good upgrade from a stock 30.... But I find it a little bit ironic that those who haven't tried the 35, only the 32 are saying the 32 is all they needed. That's a fine opinion to have, but a short-sighted one since you haven't gotten to experience what more bar will give you.

You can't know unless you've tried. And I can't think of one person who's ever gone back to a 32 after running a 35mm front bar. As for the weight, that's why I made my 35 hollow....

Believe me when I tell you if I don't think something is for you.... I won't want to sell it to you. I've got a bit of a reputation for that.

 

The weight issue was refering to any solid bar adding extra weight. Hollow IMO is the way to go.

I thought I did a good job of relaying that a 35mm would be a better sway bar hands down. But as with every modification you must figure it into a budget. If I had all the cash I wanted, I'd get a 35mm no problem. But from a $30 to a $200 stand point its my position that I am satisfied with what I got for my investment.

I am in no way trying to say a 35mm would not be a superior bar or not worth the money, cause it would be for someone who can afford it, but for all those budget oriented people who might have the same wants and needs for their F-body as I did, the 1LE might be just what they are looking for.

I would be wrong to generalize everyone into a catagory of needing a 383 stroker. Some folks just want bolt on's, some only want N2O. Different strokes for different folks. One person might want drivibility and power on demand, N2O. Or a daily driver without and power adder or internal work, bolt on.

Point is everyone has different goals, budgets, wants, and needs. If someone picks something and its exactly what they wanted for the price the could afford to pay, then I think its a great match. Yet another example would be someone asking to run mid 13's in a LT1. Some might say do a LT4 kit, but others might say it can be done similar for less with a few bolt on's.

Try not to get drawn into my metaphors too much, they arent perfect analogies. I am just trying to get my point across since it doesnt seem like I made it clear in my original post.

Cliff notes:

Bar: 30 32 35
Handling: good better best
Price: free $30 $200

The 35mm might be best for me as for as handling is concerned, but price allows otherwise. Just like a 700hp Stroker LT5 might be my best power option, price allows otherwise. How much is handling worth to the person who owns the car? For me its only worth what I can spare, $30. Economics at its finest.

-Dustin-

 

That will be the best $55 you ever spent on that car! A bigger front swaybar should be everybody's first mod.

 

I can agree with that, first suspension mod should have been this. I priced it as sway bar to sway bar.

-Dustin-

 

I just got my 1LE swaybar, poly endlinks [all four corners], my durometer front swaybar bushings, and a poly trans mount installed today. Man does the car handle nice when making turns. I wasn't able to take it on a back country road yet, just around town. But I deffinitly felt a difference.

I did get a little bit more vibration with the trans mount, but it should die down some after a bit of time. But for some reason, my exhaust got a little louder It's a prothane mount I bought through Spohn.

 

Good to hear you got that on. Odd that the exhaust got louder

-Dustin-

 

You didnt torque the endlinks with the wheels hanging in the air did you? The suspension must me settled on the ground or with jack stands on the control arms before you torque the endlinks to spec.

 

I don't know, I had my mechanic do it. I think he did it on the drive-on lift, he's knowledgable about stuff like that. But I'll ask on Monday, he just closed for the day.

 

I torqued mine while on stands...Are they going to be too lose or too tight that way? I did the rear the same. I dont know how I am going to get under there...perhaps ramps?

-Dustin-

 

Exhaust didnt get louder.... its the **slight vibration** he picked up from the Tranny Mount... it dislodged some of his ear wax.. finally


Dude I was too thinking of buying the same sway bar. For the price you paid for it you just can beat it. I am going to the 1LE way.

As for the dude selling the *better* bar... Dont rag on fellow board member... he purchased what he liked at the price he could afford. So his car is not as stiff as 10 day old corpse 100 feet underneath the ice in Alaska when he drives around the corners... so what... He is happy with what his got. Besides one day he may want more stiffness without going the viagra way... so he may very well spend the money for your better bar... I know I would buy yours if I could afford it.

So back to the 1le bar guy.... question for you.. will you need the rear bar or does it feel *neutrally* balanced with the addition of just the front bar?

Marvin

 

Thanks for the support. I would just do the front unless you find a rear 1LE for cheap, but mine seems great with the stock rear.

-Dustin-

 

Geez Marvin... I don't believe I was ragging on anyone. I was simply pointing out that while 1LE front is a certain improvement over stock, you can do better for handling. If you guys are happy with the 1LE, that's fine, but don't pretend it's the end-all when you haven't tried the other stuff.... That was my point. 1LE bars are cheap because they are made in the tens of thousands. And if you have but $50 to buy a bar, then great (unless you have an SS or WS6 which already have those bars stock).