ok so i just bought my car 95z28.. rear brake pads are really worn and it squeeks as i drive so i figure its time to change them out.

just wondering if anyone has suggestions on certain brake pads?

i pretty much just drive my car to and from work 35mph and sometimes on the highway 60-80mph but might start autocrossing this summer just for fun a few times. i want a strong brake but nothign that will warp or screw up my rotors (heard this from a friend)

someday id like to upgrade the rotors too with the C5 conversion ive hear a little about and maybe put on corvette Z06 wheels too.. but for now just looking to replace the pads. anyone have suggestions on which pads are good? and should i also do the front pads as well? i havent checked how worn they are but hell dont want good pads on the back and crappy ones up front.

was looking on summit seen they have the HAWK ceramic pads and the EBC Greenstuffs

 

Since you're apparently looking at performance pads, check out Axxis Metal Master's. Cost less than the other 2 with the same performance at the Hawk HPS.

Yes, do front as well. I seriously doubt you'd like the outcome if you didn't.

As for warping, that depends on the rotors not the pads. If you have stock rotors, get some better stock replacement blanks in the front at least. Weigh your stock front rotors and then weigh some replacements. I know for the LS1 cars stock is 16 lbs and decent replacements are 18-19 lbs. 2-3 lbs doesn't sound like much, but that extra mass is what keeps your temps manageable (doesn't fade) and helps with warpage. Think of rotors as a heat sink.

Also, don't fall for all that crossdrilled and slotted rotor propaganda.

Change out your brake fluid with some Valvoline Syntech, or Ford brake fluid or better yet since you'll be auto X-ing ATE superblue.

 

well i tried to put the new pads on today.. with no luck.

the pads are way thicker than the old ones which were barely worn (just enough so the squiler would go off). i usually can just squeeze the new pads on with the help of a Cclamp to "collapse" the piston in the caliper BUT this time i couldnt do it (i never done a chevy before). i squeezed as far as it woudl go to open it up.. i even opened up the bleeder and bottomed out the piston, put the new pads on and they were too thick my rotor wouldnt easily slide on.. i coudl BARELY catcha little bit of it so i used a soft mallet to ease it on.. well that did nothign so i got out a BFH and wacked it around a bit.. it was a HUGE PITA but i got it on and bolted it up drove out the driveway.. had to slip the clutch like crazy and when i let off the gas the car woudl jerk to a stop.. this one brake was too tight to even drive and let it wear down..


so has anyone else had this problem with their axxis metal master pads? first mod im really doing to the car shoudl be cake BUT ive never had this problem.

examining the two (old and new) pads looks like the axxis ones have about a 1/8 inch thicker metal plate that the pad is actually stuck too.. maybe i just got a bum pair?

anything im doing wrong or do i need to get new calipers or rotors just to use these new pads?

thanks

 

Mine fit right on.

 

i noticed that besides the metal part the actually pad material is attatched to being too thick,, there is also a softer sound deadening type thing.. i will try to take this off with a razor blade give me a little more clearance then also might sand down the actually pad material on a workbench at home.. just hope i dont screw anything up..

ill try the fronts probably tonight.. i wasnt in the mood to mess with those after all the frusteration in the rear.
on the plus side i took the squeelers off the old pads so now i dont have to listening to the annoying sound everytime i brake

 

I was actually told that it's the pads that cause the warping of rotors and not the rotors. I was told that ceapier pads create more heat and require you to stand on the brakes more thus causing more heat and warping your rotors. Like i said i may be wrong but this was what i was told a long time ago. I do agree with the rotor propaganda statment. I heard it was all hype. I do have them on my Vette but i don't do any auto xing either. I can't argue that they look good as hell though lol.

 

Don't sand a brake pad ever that will cause nothing but problems in the long run. Just open your master cylinder and try to compress your callipers a little more to make the clearance. As for warped rotors I used to work in a machine shop where we cut tons of rotors and have only seen one or two rotors warped. Rotors don't warp its just uneven where on your pads that create a warped feeling.

 

i already took them to work got some sand paper and rubbed them on the sandpaper.. just tryin to take a little bit off of them.
there is no more opening the caliper it was open as far as it would go and the rotor wouldnt fit between the pads.. i have nothing to loose by sanding them down because they didnt work in the first place.
i didnt take off a LOT of the brake pad just enough hopefully where itll fit in there now.. if not ill just have to sand some more.
i havent even tried the front pads yet hopefully those will be the right size.

ill let everyone know how it went.. too bad i didnt buy these locally i could have just returned them for a new pair... thats the only bad thing about the internet is the hassle involved with exchanging parts.

 

This weekend I put a set of these on one of my cars. They seem to be pretty decent pads.http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...pe=219&ptset=A