I replaced my pads and rotors the other day and now my abs inop and break light are on in the instrument panel. I loosend the bleeder valve and compresed the piston with a c-clamp and then blead the each wheel starting with the back passenger side wheel first. I thought I got all the air out, there wernt any more bubbles coming out when I was bleeding them. Do I need to bleed the abs system too? Please help!!!

 

The "BRAKE" light indicates unequal pressures in the front and rear braking circuits. Sometimes when you are bleeding the brakes, the switch (its on the side of the ABS unit, where the lines from the master cylinder attach) gets stuck in the "on" position. It will sometimes recenter if you apply the brakes really hard. Worth a try. If all you did was open the bleeders, and the master cylinder was full, it should not have let air all the way back to the ABS unit.

One question though.... why did you open the bleeders? All you had to do was compress the cylinders and push the fluid back into the reservoir. If the reservoir was full, you use a baster to remove some of it so the reservoir won't overflow. Much simpler that way.

 

Well i wanted to get some of the old fluid out of the calipers and at least a little new fluid in the system. I dunno i guess I like doing things the hard way

But why would my abs inop light be on?

 

Anyone else, I need to get my car runnen again.

 

This is probably no help but best I can do...I changed the master cylinder on a different GM vehicle a 95 and the ABS lights and crap were on afterwards...I drove it around for a day like that and it eventually went away...I set the e-brake all that good stuff...I dunno if they have to reset or adjust to new fluid pressures or what but drive it around and see if it turns off...like I said no help but my ABS light experiance without having a sensor die...