So after lowering my car, adding an adj torque arm, adj lcs's and an adj pb, it's always handled sort of funny to me, the reason @ first was that the panhard wasn't adjusted correctly, the lca's weren't adjusted right either. So after squaring it up and using a plumb bob and a level, then having it checked by a reputable shop, so it's in there square and it still handles funny. So I inquired about it at a 4x4 shop, the guy said it ws simple, by lowering the car and only shortening the panhard, and using spherical links on the lca's, the rearend is moving a lot mor because of better parts and poor geometry. Since the car is lowered and the angle of the panhard hasn't been corrected, when the cars suspension travels up or down, the panhard moves the rearend in relation to the body so in order to correct it, you are supposed to use a different panhard mount for the body mounting location. It will fix the angle of the panhard and allow the rearend to actuate in the correct manner. Now is all of this true? It makes sense, answers a lot of questions and is a definite possibility, at least in my mind. Has anybody else heard of this? I'm not saying the guy is a liar by any means. I'm just not sure, and very skeptical of the people down here on account of some people not knowing what they are talking about and saying almost anything to pry your money from your wallet. All input appreciated. Thanx

 

He is sort of correct. Has nothing to do with looseness, especially with rod ends, but is geometry. The factory mounts position the pb running diagonally across the axle from lower left to upper right. As the car rolls, the axle moves and the drivers end of the pb sweeps through an arc, fixed at the passenger side. How well the pb works depends on where the axle is in relation (above or below) to the fixed arm of the pb. When you lower the car (or raise it) you change those relative positions and affect handling. You can use a watts link instead of pb and solve it.

 

Watts links? Never heard of them, so if u would be so kind, tell me about them. How do they work? What are they? Where can I get them, how do they install, price, so forth. Thanks for the help and info too.

 

brandons94lt1:
Here's a page and site where you can learn about the Watts link. http://www.fays2.net/fays2_watts_link_21_.html
If I hadn't already invested and installed my parts I would have been very tempted. With an all heim joint rear suspension, quick hands and a smooth right foot are needed. (and a little time and practice to become accustomed to the way the car will feel and react .. it's worth the effort)

 

Ok so is it correct to say if I were to install this type of set up, my car would be snappy in the changes with the rearend? And a smooth right foot? Yeah it's smooth, as long as it's planted on the floor he he he. I'll look into it, u never know right? Thanx for the info. I appreciate it.

 

I went from stock to 1.5 lower springs (strano) with the watts link and I have no issues with the rear; it is significantly better handling than stock. Cost was about $650 if I remember, went in really easily.

A truss attaches to pass side pb body mount and upper driver side body mount; axle pb mount is not used. Two axle tubes clamp on each side of the differential housing; rod ends attach from each of these to a pivot bar which attaches to the center of the truss.

I had to remove the brake hold downs on rear axle as they interfered with the axle tube/arms (used zip ties to secure brake lines). I also had to cut the washer on the inboard upper driver side mounting bolts and remove some of fuel tank shield as it rubbed against the truss.

You do need to adjust with the vehicle level and suspension loaded (using an angle indicator) to get everything to the correct angles and same lengths; I removed, installed and adjusted in like a 6 hour day (as well as degrimed the axle and installed the springs).

 

Kewl, sounds like a fun project. The only problem for me is that my car is droped 1.25 inches, and I stand around 6'5 close to 6'6, and my chest and shoulders don't fit under my car now. Guess that's why they make lifts right? Meaning of course a lift with the tires supporting the car in this case. But other than that, sounds like my next project. Well right after I change my A shift solenoid out. Might do the B solenoid and the pressure manifold too just for good measure. So will this conversion work with the adj lca's and stuff that I already have? It sounds like it, just have to adjust everything, that's no biggy. Has anyone conquered the road noise issue with spherical end lca's yet? Great improvement to the suspension, terrible on the ears, well mine are @ low speeds anyway. Thanx for the info once again. Yet another way to stiffen up the car and get the tires planted even better.