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Loud front brakes

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Old Apr 22, 2004 | 06:34 PM
  #1  
CamaroBoy96Z28's Avatar
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From: Madison Heights, MI
Loud front brakes

Well I installed my C5 brakes about 3 weeks ago and they work great. My pads didnt get broken in perfectly and so now they squeel pretty loud when Im stopping mainly almost stationary. What can I do to make them quiet(er)?
Old Apr 27, 2004 | 02:22 PM
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Anyone?
Old Apr 27, 2004 | 04:59 PM
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What kinda pads did you use? A squeal is actually a harmonic vibration that causes that noise, you rotors probably need a new turning(glazed) if you have a top shelf pad
Why don`t you bring it by my shop on saturday and we`ll take care of it...PM me
Old Apr 27, 2004 | 10:05 PM
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From: Casa del queso, MA
Well, for starters, you could try some of the spray-on anti-squeal that you apply to the back of the pads.

Use this stuff on new brakes all the time (if you're anywhere near a Dodge Dakota, you'll learn how to do brakes very quickly!), haven't heard a squeal yet (even if the brakes weren't broken in perfectly).

Worth a shot.
Old Apr 28, 2004 | 08:06 PM
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These are brand new Hawk HPS pads and GM C5 rotors. I might try the spray on stuff first. If I still can't do anything about it, I'll talk to you greezemonkey. I really hate taking my car someplace and not doing work myself but there may be no choice, I'm not going to live with the squeeling.
Old Apr 29, 2004 | 02:14 AM
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Hey now

I didn`t say I was gonna do all the work I thought there was a "we`ll" in there somewhere....LOL no man seriously bring it by my shop on saturday(were closed) but I get to use it...you can pull the rotors and I`ll spin`em on the lathe for a fresh surface and you can do all the dirty work
Old Apr 29, 2004 | 11:10 AM
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lol I get ya now. Well I wouldnt mind a bit of help. I can't bring it by this saturday, maybe another day I can bring it by. Sunday I could, but dont know if thats good for ya. Let me know.
Old Apr 29, 2004 | 04:24 PM
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I`ll pm you my number, I may be able to help you out on sunday if it`s early enough
Old Apr 29, 2004 | 05:58 PM
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Sounds like you created a glaze before completely bedding the pads, or the rotors may not be completely seasoned yet. Describe the bedding and seasoning procedures you used. My instructions advise customers to follow Baer’s bedding/seasoning instructions. Regular driving is sufficient to bed regular factory type pads, and can work on HPS’s if you don’t get caught in stop-and-go traffic before the rotor seasoning is finished.

You can break through the glaze and get the necessary carbon transfer onto the rotors by doing some serious stopping. On a deserted, paved area (not a public road), get up to 80 mph and make repeated, back-to-back panic stops until you smell the breaks (have window open). When you first start smelling them, reduce your speeds by 10-20 mph on each successive stop, but still hard on the breaks until you REALLY smell them. Then you should cruise for at least 15 mins at highway speeds until the breaks are cool. At that point they should be quiet.

I would not turn the rotors at all. You have not warped the rotors with those pads (not possible), and turning them would remove the carbon transfer film and you would have to start all over on the rotor seasoning. The fact that your pedal is not pulsing on regular stops indicates that the rotors are not warped.

Another cause could be pad installation. I can see from the pics on your install page that you got the anti-rattle springs correctly installed. But I and others have sometimes not gotten the locating tab on the brake pad backing plate to go into the channel on a pad abutment shim. The tab can be in the channel in the PAD ABUTMENT BRACKET, but not within the shim’s channel. With enough pressure, the ear can bend the shim a little and push it out of the way instead of going into its channel. This prevents that pad from being able to slide and will cause squeal. If that is your problem, you can reshape the shim’s channel with needle nose pliers and reuse it.

Hope this helps.
Old Apr 30, 2004 | 01:14 PM
  #10  
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Thanks for the help Bob. The city traffic didnt really allow me to go through the process perfectly and I was following the link from Baer's site. I was looking at the rotor from an angle and they look a little like they have a mirror finish so I believe you are dead on as for the glazing issue. I know the tabs are in the shim the right way and I did end up reshaping one of them to get the pad to fit...I made sure of that. I believe im going to try the hard braking method first.
Old May 2, 2004 | 02:15 AM
  #11  
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From: NY...what a bad place for a nice car
Originally posted by lateapex
Sounds like you created a glaze before completely bedding the pads, or the rotors may not be completely seasoned yet. Describe the bedding and seasoning procedures you used. My instructions advise customers to follow Baer’s bedding/seasoning instructions. Regular driving is sufficient to bed regular factory type pads, and can work on HPS’s if you don’t get caught in stop-and-go traffic before the rotor seasoning is finished.

You can break through the glaze and get the necessary carbon transfer onto the rotors by doing some serious stopping. On a deserted, paved area (not a public road), get up to 80 mph and make repeated, back-to-back panic stops until you smell the breaks (have window open). When you first start smelling them, reduce your speeds by 10-20 mph on each successive stop, but still hard on the breaks until you REALLY smell them. Then you should cruise for at least 15 mins at highway speeds until the breaks are cool. At that point they should be quiet.

I would not turn the rotors at all. You have not warped the rotors with those pads (not possible), and turning them would remove the carbon transfer film and you would have to start all over on the rotor seasoning. The fact that your pedal is not pulsing on regular stops indicates that the rotors are not warped.

Another cause could be pad installation. I can see from the pics on your install page that you got the anti-rattle springs correctly installed. But I and others have sometimes not gotten the locating tab on the brake pad backing plate to go into the channel on a pad abutment shim. The tab can be in the channel in the PAD ABUTMENT BRACKET, but not within the shim’s channel. With enough pressure, the ear can bend the shim a little and push it out of the way instead of going into its channel. This prevents that pad from being able to slide and will cause squeal. If that is your problem, you can reshape the shim’s channel with needle nose pliers and reuse it.

Hope this helps.
hey when i did my brakes i didnt use the spray on anti squeal i used the other stuff...well a few days later they decided to start to squeal......
i did notice if i did some nice hard stops that they would stop squealing...but then the next day they would start again....
can u give me a clue on what i can do to stop the squealing...?
i know they are seated right b/c they gove me a nice flat grove in myslotted/drilled rotors i have
Old May 6, 2004 | 01:05 PM
  #12  
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Originally posted by CamaroSS30thAnn
hey when i did my brakes i didnt use the spray on anti squeal i used the other stuff...well a few days later they decided to start to squeal......
i did notice if i did some nice hard stops that they would stop squealing...but then the next day they would start again....
can u give me a clue on what i can do to stop the squealing...?
i know they are seated right b/c they gove me a nice flat grove in myslotted/drilled rotors i have
I used the method Bob mentioned above and it worked. My brakes are now silent. I was nervous about doing it at first because I'm not too comfortable slamming on the brakes at 80 mph but the car stayed straight as an arrow and came to an abrupt but smooth stop, no pedal vibration or anything.

Thanks a lot Bob and thanks for offering to help greezemonkey but it wont be necessary. I'll keep you in mind if I do come into a problem I can't fix with my brakes.
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