ive heard the talk and read the reviews and im goin to go with the H&R springs. What do you guys think? i got a 94 Z -- i dont want no fender gap hardly but mostly i want it to handle better.

which is a better spring from eibach sportlines or the pro kit?

which shocks should i run if i was to get the h&r's?

 

Call sam. Thats the best thing.

Why do you want springs? To reduce body roll? Lots of the behavior comes from improper damping.

You will need revavles or Koni's SA.

You might be suprised what a 350$ set of HD"s would do on stock springs....

or revalves and a good front BAR 35mm.....

Just read a lot. I would suggest searching and reading for 4-5 hours to get a better understanding of what/why you need a setup. You dont' want to spend a lot of money and get something you don't want..then take it back off and buy something better. Many people have done this and youdont' want too. Thats why its best to read several hours get a baseline. Then call up Sam he will be able to direct you in what you need.

Not know enough Details. I say get revalves,stock springs and a 35mm hollow front bar and enjoy..the beneifts of reduced body roll and brake dive.

 

I run the H&R's (well, I did, I've changed the rears in the last year).

I'd run them for handling over the Eibachs, the H&R's have a better spring rate for handling use. The fronts are 600 in lb (which is perfect in my opinion). The rears are 200 in lbs which is a bit stiff (I'd run a stock 19mm rear bar with them). I would not run anything less than a Koni (or a revalve) on these. Stock HD's will be "helpless" with those spring rates.

And, ultimately, I changed my rear springs for Ground Control 150 in lbs with the adjusters and added a 22mm hollow rear strano bar.

 

600 and 200 for a street car is WAY TO STIFF. For road racing sam uses 550/130 or 150. So for the street thats too stiff and you would have to go with Koni.

Call Sam. You can get good handling from Koni's lower perch/hose mod. Rember these cars can handle good with proper shocks.

 

Coolformula.....relax.

I have a street car. It's a daily driver with 77,000 miles on it that was lowered with less than 10k on it. I have a set of 10 spokes with snow tires in the garage for the winter (they clear my wilwood brakes), I drive it all year. It's my only car, that sounds like a street car to me. I also won the SM2 SCCA Autocross championship in my local region last year with the same car. It's not too stiff for a street car, it works just fine, ask me how I know..... .

And, mostly Sam autocrosses (not so much track use, but he's done some of that as well) and he's run both 550 and 600 in lb springs on his car. You can read everything you'd like on these forums and keep reposting it, but it's far better to try something and give first hand information. This is what I'm trying to do.

Yes, I think 200 is a bit stiff in the rear. However, it worked quite well on the street (for several years) and if it was only a street car, I might have just left the springs on it. For autocrossing it needed less rear spring and a bit more rear bar (for my tastes) so I made some changes.

The sky is not falling and 600/200 isn't completely perfect (the rears would be better at 150), but it works very, very well (with the right shocks). Do not panic.

And yes, proper shocks will make these cars handle far better than stock, even on stock springs. However, he wanted to lower the car and increase handling. We can do that and I'm telling you one of the ways that will work.

 

I have the B+G springs. Very similar rate to the H&R. The front rate is OK and I agree, the rear rate is too high. If you're set on a higher rate spring, you may as well look @ the Vogtland too. With any of these I'd only run Koni.

Which Eibiotch are you looking at? There is more than 1 choice and I wouldn't pick either. The Sportline is too low for DD IMO. They also don't have enough rate so you end up riding on bumpstops. The prokit is OK, but there are many people who end up with a lower rear than front after a while. The rears have a tendency to sag.

If I was to do it again, I'd go Hotchkis.

Remember, no wheel gap = less suspension travel = harder ride. It also means less ground clearance. Hope you don't mind grinding. If you want good handling, get good shocks and some swaybars. Springs shouldn't and can't do it all. Tires will make a big difference too.

 

I agree with trackbird on the daily driving and rear spring rate issues. I switched back to the stock rear sway bar because the bigger bar caused too much oversteer when autocrossing.