Suspension, Chassis, and Brakes Shocks, springs, cages, brakes, sub-frame connectors, etc.

EBC yellow stuff. any one using?

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Old Nov 11, 2007 | 11:16 PM
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viper03af's Avatar
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EBC yellow stuff. any one using?

i have hawk HPS now, i get lots of dust, and they don't hold the car at the line very well. and don't seem to brake well when cold

the main reason i would get these pads is for the "cold" performance. i need more holding power so i can stall the car up more when staged without rolling

any info would help, i searched but couldn't find any thread on the yellow pads
Old Nov 12, 2007 | 07:46 PM
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We've sold a couple sets but never really heard how or what the customers though of them :-/ Do you have a line lock? That may help out alot for you to stage your car...
Old Nov 12, 2007 | 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by CustomSSI
We've sold a couple sets but never really heard how or what the customers though of them :-/ Do you have a line lock? That may help out alot for you to stage your car...
line lock are for burn outs....... i stand on the brake right now till my leg starts to shake just to hold it at 2600 RPM lol

line lock won't even hold 1500 rpm because its only on the front brakes
Old Nov 13, 2007 | 11:14 AM
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oh ok so your trying to get your RPMs higher for a launch? I misread that....
Old Nov 13, 2007 | 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by CustomSSI
oh ok so your trying to get your RPMs higher for a launch? I misread that....
yes, sorry i wasn't real clear about that

what price do you have on them ?
Old Nov 13, 2007 | 11:36 AM
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According to your website you have a pretty loose converter. It should be allowing a lot of slippage at only 1500 RPM. I had a 10" converter that wasn't as loose as yours in my 70 and I had no probs holding it with cheap part store pads and the single piston calipers and tiny rotors that were used back then.

I would think that your brakes would have to be really messed to the point of where they can't stop your car well at all not to be able to hold with a loose converter at only 1500 RPM. So maybe your converter isn't slipping like it should.

Last edited by Greed4Speed; Nov 13, 2007 at 11:38 AM.
Old Nov 13, 2007 | 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Greed4Speed
According to your website you have a pretty loose converter. It should be allowing a lot of slippage at only 1500 RPM. I had a 10" converter that wasn't as loose as yours in my 70 and I had no probs holding it with cheap part store pads and the single piston calipers and tiny rotors that were used back then.

I would think that your brakes would have to be really messed to the point of where they can't stop your car well at all not to be able to hold with a loose converter at only 1500 RPM. So maybe your converter isn't slipping like it should.
1500 with the line lock only i can stall 2500 with the brakes would like to be able to stall about 3000......... the vert is a 4600 PI
Old Nov 13, 2007 | 03:20 PM
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I used to bring my 70 up to 3k w/a 10" converter and it would hold with brakes that were from the 70's (disk front/drum rear). I later changed it out to an 11" and it would try to creep when trying to "stall." To me it sounds like your converter isn't letting things slip like it should.

Also instead of changing pads for more holding strength, when was the last time you changed brake fluid?
Old Nov 13, 2007 | 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Greed4Speed
I used to bring my 70 up to 3k w/a 10" converter and it would hold with brakes that were from the 70's (disk front/drum rear). I later changed it out to an 11" and it would try to creep when trying to "stall." To me it sounds like your converter isn't letting things slip like it should.

Also instead of changing pads for more holding strength, when was the last time you changed brake fluid?
i bled/replaced fluid when i put the steel lines on... didn't help
Old Nov 13, 2007 | 07:12 PM
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And the brakes work fine otherwise?
Old Nov 14, 2007 | 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Greed4Speed
And the brakes work fine otherwise?
yes they stop just fine
Old Nov 15, 2007 | 01:48 PM
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Then i would think it might be the converter not flashing at an RPM that you need it to and not the brake pads.
Old Nov 16, 2007 | 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Greed4Speed
Then i would think it might be the converter not flashing at an RPM that you need it to and not the brake pads.
its already pushing through verter i can't go any looser
Old Nov 16, 2007 | 05:41 PM
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Don't know what to tell you then.

Going to a more agressive pad probably won't help you on the line either. Most pads that are more agressive have less cold bite. In other words they need to heat up to get to maximum grippage. Thats a technical term there.
Old Nov 16, 2007 | 05:55 PM
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from there site

Although a full race material and capable of high temperature use with very good wear life, this new formulation sets a new trend in race type brake pad compounds that can be used on the highway. The “bite” from cold is superb which is uncommon with race materials (normally requiring warm-up) and makes this a pad which can be safely used on both street and track. This new formulation has been used by numerous championship race and rally drivers and is truly a milestone in brake pad material development. Nominal friction coefficient 0.5 with zero rotor damage and similar dust to original pads.
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