Ok Guys/Gals, I finished my tie rod boots today and while under there inspected all of my front upper and lower bushings and ball joints. Looks like I'm gonna have to replace the upper and lower control arm bushings in the front as they are completely shot (guess that's why my car handles like sh## on bumps). Ordered some Moog OEM replacements as I wanna stay away from Poly and I'm gonna be tackling it this weekend. Any advise on changing them out? Do I need to remove the spindle or can I just drop the rear of the CA's and remove the old bushings and press the new one's in? Also, what is the best way to get the old one's out and the best way to put the new one's in? Do they need to be pressed out or in?
If I do have to separate the spindle what is the best way to do it with out screwing up the ball joints or boots as I have heard a pickle fork can screw them up?
Thanks and any input is greatly appreciated.

FYI - The reason I am leaving the ball joints alone is they look and perform perfect. Boots look new (no cracks or wear) and they have zero play.

 

IT IS EASIER TO JUST TAKE THEM OUT ALL THE WAY

after you loosen the nuts turn wheel all the way and hit the spindle on a flat spot (if possible)several times until it pops (you will need to put some power behind it so watch out for your fenders )

they do press in but you can use a socket that fits over rubber but contacts the metal sleeve(if you dont have a vise you will need to find something to put arms on to keep from bending them when pounding out and in)

good luck

 

Good luck getting your control arms out to do the job. Expect the bolt that's facing down to be seized and not come out.

Edit: I see you're in TX. Your luck will most likely be better than mine.

 

Yeah, I'm not worried about the bolts coming out as the car only has bout' 48K on the clock and all the bolts are spotless (no rust). The main thing I am worried about is how to properly get the old bushings out and the new ones in. Also, if I need to separate them from the ball joints?

 

anyone else?

 

I'm surprised to hear your bushings are shot after only 48k miles. My TA has more then twice that and they seem fine. The easiest way to replace the bushings would be to remove the arm and use a press to remove and install. If you don't have access to a press a bench vise would work, or you could burn out the rubber and cut the sleeve out with a hacksaw and use some chisels to remove it. But a press would be MUCH easier and quicker.

If you don't want to use a pickle fork to pop the lower ball joint, usually a swift hit with a hammer at the knuckle does the job.

 

Thanks for the advise. But I'm done for today, got the arms out (upper and lower real quick) and the ball joints separated quickly with one wack to the side of the arm with a small hammer. Like I said no rust so removal was a snap. However the bushings were a different story as we got one arms out but when trying to press the new one in it binded and screwed up the new bushing. Decided to drop them off at a local shop that has a press and they are going to remove all the others and install the new ones for me. Picking them up tomorrow morning. All good, and should be able to finish tomorrow.

FYI - I saw how bad my bushings were when I removed both upper and lower arms as the rubber was completely separated on all and they were off center and cracked up pretty good. Can't wait to get it all back together as I know it's gonna ride like a dream again.

 

Glad to see it worked out for you. Be sure to get it aligned when you get it back together.

 

Just a question, but why did you want to stay away from Poly? Im going to be starting the same thing real soon here and was still deciding on the Moog replacements or the Poly.

Thanks.

 

Tons of guys on here will tell you about how harsh the Polys are on the front control arms. Poly IMO is better suited everywhere else (rear control arms, tq arm, motor and tranny mounts, etc...) but not on the front ca's. Ask Sam Strano on here and he'll tell u all about them and will highly recc away from them as they are very harsh on the ride. Just my opinion and it's up to you.

 

TTT as I would like to continue the rubber vs poly conjecture. Some say that rubber should even be used on the rear LCA's. Are the "Moog" replacements really much better than stock? I'm learning what I can as I'm about to do a very thorough suspension makeover on mine.

 

The rear is a completely different story as Poly is deff a good idea. However, in the front upper and lower stick with rubber and I'd go with the Moog as they are a proven part. The problem is you feel most of your ride from the deflection in the front control and this is why most don't recc poly up front, unless it's a serious track car or you just don't mind.

 

Bud M told me Strano would likely advise against poly LCA bushings for the back too. Saying that you "want" a little bit of axle twist in that area. He said the sway bar should be poly as you don't want twist there but out on the ends you want a little so one wheel can compress more than the other in turns. Make sense or do you disagree?

 

I did Energy poly bushings up front. I also have them every where else, and, poly motor mounts. I lov the ride. Handles like a go-kart with high-rate SLP springs and bilstein shocks. Could not believe how soft the stock rubber was. One of the most fun mods I did. (97ss 383-D1 MM6) B.

 

Sounds right, but I have boxed LCAs and they already have the Polys installed and most guys here run them w/o any issues. The places I have poly are Motor Mounts, Tranny Mount, TA Mount, Sway Bar and LCA's. Still suggest the moog up front though. Talk to Sam Strano as he also advised me to go with Moog/Rubber up front and he pretty much knows his stuff.