Hey Guys,

I am about to do the install of C5 Front Brake Package but am looking for details on how to install? I went to speedspeciality.com for the template and parts list but there must be more in terms of instructions??? Does anyone have this??

Thanks in advance.

 

1. With car on level ground break lug nuts lose on both front wheels.

2. Jack up front of vehicle, place jack stands under frame to support vehicle. Remove both front wheels.

3. It is recommended to install one side at a time, start with either side. Using a 13mm wrench loosen banjo bolt and remove rubber brake line from caliper and tie out of the way to prevent leaking, save banjo bolt and (2) cooper washers. Do not damage brake line; it will be reused if not being replaced with new lines.

4. Locate (2) caliper mounting bolts attaching caliper to the steering knuckle, using an 18mm wrench remove both bolts and remove caliper from vehicle. Caliper may require light tapping to break it lose, this is normal. Slide rotor off as well.

5. Locate ABS sensor attached to the back side of hub, disconnect sensor and tie it out of the way.

6. Locate (4) hub bolts on back side of steering knuckle. Using a 13mm socket remove all (4) bolts. Remove hub assembly from steering knuckle. Using a wire wheel clean back side on steering knuckle, this will be needed for conversion bracket to seat.

7. This next step requires cutting of the steering knuckle. Both LT1 and LS1 knuckles will require cutting. Image 1 shows a LS1 model and can be used for a guide on both set ups. Removing the ear is needed for clearance to mount the conversion bracket in place, this step must be completed! LT1 models require you to make (2) cuts. Using a reciprocating saw cut the lower ear straight off on both LS1 and LT1 models. LT1 models require cutting above the assembly hub which is necessary for caliper clearance. Once cutting is completed place conversion bracket into place to insure appropriate clearance.

8. Locate one bracket, each bracket is universal and can be used on either side. Place bracket on back side of steering knuckle were bolts from step 6 were removed. The new ears will be facing towards the back of the car. Using the new supplied 10mm bolts and lock washers attach bracket to steering knuckle while reattaching hub assembly. Make sure bracket is sitting flush on steering knuckle and tighten bolts to 63 ft lbs.

9. Reattach ABS connector making sure it clicks in place.
10. Now assemble the complete caliper assembly and prepare for installation. An exploded view of the Corvette caliper has been supplied; please use this as a reference to proceed with installation. Start by assembling the pad abutment bracket (the LS1 or LT1 abutment bracket can not be used) using the guide pin, guide pin boot, caliper and guide pin bolt, be sure to lubricate the guide pin with silicone grease. Torque spec for guide pin bolt is 23 ft lbs. **Please note this assembly should be completed by a professional technician to assure safe and proper operation.

11. Insert the pad abutment shims, anti-rattle springs and brake pads into pad abutment/caliper assembly.

12. Install new C5 brake rotor. Please note rotors are directional and are only designed to work on one side due to the air vents. ONLY install the right handed rotor on the right side!

13. Now install the caliper assembly on to the vehicle using the supplied 14mm bolts (lock washers are optional but are supplied). Blue Loctite may be applied to the threads as well. Tighten the caliper into place to 125 ft lbs. Using the saved or new banjo bolt and (2) cooper washers from step 3 reinstall brake hose to caliper. If you purchased a complete kit new banjo bolts and cooper washers have been supplied.

14. Repeat all steps in detail on the opposite side.

15. Before reinstalling wheels use lug nuts and tighten rotor into place as if wheel was installed. Spin rotor through out its movement and insure clearance around abutment bracket and rotor. Rotor should spin freely. Before installing wheels, turn steering wheel each way as far as possible, from out side the car check to insure the new calipers are not pulling on the brake lines. If tension is shown on lines you must purchase new lines using the part number below. The new lines will be the C5 brake lines. Check both sides.

16. Once installation on both sides is completed brake bleeding of all (4) wheels will be necessary. Start by bleeding the front wheels first and then perform normal brake bleeding starting at the farthest wheel from the master cylinder to the closet. This will require bleeding of the front wheels twice which is necessary. Continue procedure until brake pedal is firm.

17. Test drive vehicle to assure all components are working properly. Follow the break in procedure below. Recheck all bolts for tightness after approximately 300 miles.

 

did you get the "c5 brake hardware kit"? they're not mentioned and they dont come with some pads. they are metal shims that go between the pads and abutment brackets.

 

Always Faster - Thanks so much for the details you provided. I had no idea I would get that much detail..ha ha! How could I screw it up now? Many thanks!

 

All I know is I will be getting the necessary hardware for the C5 upgrade. I have this info from SpeedSpeciality.

 

No problemo,always glad to help when i can,those are a copy/paste from the UMI instruction for there c5 kit.

Here is what you need:

Quantity GM Part Number Item Description

1 12530682 C5 Caliper- Black (Guide Pin Bolts Included)
1 12530683 C5 Caliper- Black (Guide Pin Bolts Included)
1 88895128 Z06 Caliper- Red (Guide Pin Bolts Included)
1 88895129 Z06 Caliper- Red (Guide Pin Bolts Included)
1 10445856 GM Rotor
1 10445857 GM Rotor
2 12455799 Pad Abutment Bracket
4 10139097 Banjo Bolt Cooper Washers
2 22163795 Banjo Bolt
4 12530703 Guide Pin Boot
4 12530697 Pad Abutment Guide Pin
2 10333772 Front Brake Hose- Caliper

2 Napa Part # 83212
Raybestos # H5644 Springs and Shim (Caliper Hardware Kit)
1 Set of brake pads of your choice, i suggest for a street car HAWK HPS

 

If you've got a LT1 car I recommend replacing the brake line with c5 lines (longer).

You'll also need cutting fluid(if using a sawzall instead of a grinder), loctite, lube for the sliders, and brake fluid.

 

Do you recommend the cross drilled rotors or the standard GM ones for the C5? I have heard mixed reviews on this? The Hawk HPS pads are not GM right? Finally since I live in Canada will I be able to get the Napa Part #83212 and Raybestos #H5644 Springs and Shim here in Canada??? What the heck is that Napa Part anyways?

2 Napa Part # 83212
Raybestos # H5644 Springs and Shim (Caliper Hardware Kit)
1 Set of brake pads of your choice, i suggest for a street car HAWK HPS[/QUOTE]

 

i just finished the install on my car last weekend. here are my comments:

-i found that a grinder worked better than the sawzall.
-if you have an LT1 car, you cannot reuse your banjo bolts - the banjo bolts for the c5 caliper is a m10 - 1"
-the best thing to do for brake lines is either buy c5 rubber hoses if you want longevity, or if you go the stainless steel route, make sure you get something that has covered lines!!! otherwise, dirt will work its way into the braids and eventually tear through the teflon hose inside. My recommendation is stoptech lines (they are DOT approved, have a clear coating and come with banjo bolts and new copper washers).

The braking power is much improved over the LT1 set up, especially after multiple stops. Its silly how small the LT1 rotors are given the weight of these cars. I did 6 stops back to back from 100 kph to 10 with no fade. I really like this set up, esp for the money.

 

Hey thanks for the comments. This should help make the process a lot smoother. As Dave K points out I will need the longer 5 brakes line correct? Either get the C5 rubber ones or the Stoptech correct?

 

That is correct - stoptech or OEM C5 rubber. The LT1 hoses are not long enough. If you get stainless lines, keep in mind that it is recommended that you check/replace them every two years. They are not considered as durable as OEM rubber hoses and the quality varies wildly. If you dont plan on checking them often, get the rubber hoses. JRP in mississauga is a distributor for stoptech. They are about $95 + taxes for a pair but it takes about 7-10 days to get here (not in stock). I called a dealership and they said the rubber hoses are 150 + taxes for a pair, but as a member of TFBM, you get a discount through royal pontiac, right?

 

Cross drilled rotors are for the bling bling factor only. They are prone to cracking and are not necessary from a performance standpoint. The only x-drilled rotors that I know of that are good are the ones brembo makes for porsche which have the holes cast into the rotors, rather than being drilled after the fact. The cheapie C5 rotors are all you need.

Hawk HPS are not GM. They are decent street pad from what I hear.

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Just making sure. I will stick with the big cheap C5 rotors...ha ha! I think I will go with the Hawk HPS pads. Any extra life and or performance I can get from these pads are well worth it. I can't wait to be be able to STOP my Lt1 now. Now all I have to worry about is the guy behind me who can't stop as well as me. Oh well could be worse right?

 

Do you ever go to any meets or out for cruises in the GTA? Id like to check out your car sometime.. it sounds like a mean set up!

Just making sure. I will stick with the big cheap C5 rotors...ha ha! I think I will go with the Hawk HPS pads. Any extra life and or performance I can get from these pads are well worth it. I can't wait to be be able to STOP my Lt1 now. Now all I have to worry about is the guy behind me who can't stop as well as me. Oh well could be worse right?[/QUOTE]

 

one thing i forgot to add: you might want to pick up some high temp paint (i used black duplicolor engine paint) and spray the cooling vanes and hats of the rotors to prevent rust. i sprayed it as carefully as I could around the inner part of of the rotor without taping, and what little overspray there was left was quickly wiped away the first time i used the brakes.