Alignment off or bigger problem?
I'm an alignment specialist at a Goodyear on Long Island. I have the tool needed to do the camber/caster. For a shop to have you pay for an alignment, then tell you after your second time back with a problem, that YOU need to buy the tool is just crap! Mechanics have to buy their own tools... it's how it is. Older Ford Taurus's have a special wrench to set the toe on the rear. It's the only thing in the world the wrench can do. Yet we don't tell customers they have to provide the wrench... the mechanic has to get it or make something else work that won't leave marks on the car.
Also... when a car is involved in a crash, more measurements sometimes need to be made. Caster/camber and toe are involved in any alignment, but there are still more angles. Ride height you can measure with a tape measure before going to the shop. There's also sai (steering axis inclination) to help determine if a spindle is bent. (SAI is like caster, but viewed from the front--it's the angle the imaginiary line between the upper and lower ball joint make in relation to true vertical.) But since your camber is within spec, SAI is likely in spec as well.
I'd have the setback checked. This makes sure the wheelbase is the same on both sides of the car (which you can also measure with a tape measure before going to the shop, but the alignment machine can give you exact measurements.) If the wheel that got hit is pushed back or forward, it's in indication that something else can be bent, and can cause crazy driving problems. A quick and easy way to tell is to use your hand... place your hand between behind the tire and the fender. Usually use the molding line as a point of reference, and check it on the other side. If one side allows more fingers to fit there's a problem.
These angles should be ok if the alignment was able to get reset back to specs, but as I said they are another way to doublecheck that the car's frame is straight when diagnosing problems on a third-time comeback.
Also... when a car is involved in a crash, more measurements sometimes need to be made. Caster/camber and toe are involved in any alignment, but there are still more angles. Ride height you can measure with a tape measure before going to the shop. There's also sai (steering axis inclination) to help determine if a spindle is bent. (SAI is like caster, but viewed from the front--it's the angle the imaginiary line between the upper and lower ball joint make in relation to true vertical.) But since your camber is within spec, SAI is likely in spec as well.
I'd have the setback checked. This makes sure the wheelbase is the same on both sides of the car (which you can also measure with a tape measure before going to the shop, but the alignment machine can give you exact measurements.) If the wheel that got hit is pushed back or forward, it's in indication that something else can be bent, and can cause crazy driving problems. A quick and easy way to tell is to use your hand... place your hand between behind the tire and the fender. Usually use the molding line as a point of reference, and check it on the other side. If one side allows more fingers to fit there's a problem.
These angles should be ok if the alignment was able to get reset back to specs, but as I said they are another way to doublecheck that the car's frame is straight when diagnosing problems on a third-time comeback.
I confirmed that the passenger side IS sitting slightly lower than the driver side, probably by the matter of a fraction of an inch but Im not extremely worried as long as the tires wear evenly... ...Um curious though where would I find a good suspension shop? And also, if I go to replace the springs, can I do this myself or do you recommend a shop do it? I don't have any experience with compressed objects... I wanted to lower the car a bit, I was thinking maybe a half inch to an inch (because I still wanted true duals)...Any recommendations?
If the ride height is within a quarter of an inch you should be good. Even up to half an inch but that's when you start cutting it close. And you need a spring compressor to change the springs. You could get really hurt if you don't use one...
And out of my sick and morbid curiosity, what would happen if I were to dissasemble the springs without a spring compressor?
I mean the ride height should be equal from side to side, before and after lowering the car. About not using a compressor ... you'd have a spring under a lot of tension suddenly become free with your arm holding the impact gun in front of it. I'm sure someone's got it on youtube.. post a link if you find it.
Cool, just to be on the safe side, what shop would you recommend I take the car to just to have them inspect for Equal ride height and to see if the steering knuckle was bent or if perhaps the allaignment is off? I no longer trust Firestone... Any recommendations? Im sick of cocking the wheel to the left just to go straight.
Cool, just to be on the safe side, what shop would you recommend I take the car to just to have them inspect for Equal ride height and to see if the steering knuckle was bent or if perhaps the allaignment is off? I no longer trust Firestone... Any recommendations? Im sick of cocking the wheel to the left just to go straight.
Would definately be worth the looksee - Should you find trouble with either the steering knuckle, springs, or the alaignment how much would you be willing to charge for the repair, just for inormation purposes that way I'd know how much I'm getting into... Where in Orlando are you located?
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Hurin
Suspension, Chassis, and Brakes
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Dec 13, 2014 07:38 PM



... Would you give me a travelers discount?
