Adjusting Spohn torque arm.
So I'm in the process of adjusting my pinion angle and I need to know if the front mount is supposed to be exactly above the lower mount (attached to the crossmember mount), like seen her.
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h7...ntmountta2.jpg |
Yes, with the suspension at normal ride height, the side links should be vertical.
|
This topic came up before and I adjusted mine as short as it woud go. But the side links are still aiming towards the front of the car slightly.
|
Originally Posted by Z-RATED94
(Post 4909713)
This topic came up before and I adjusted mine as short as it woud go. But the side links are still aiming towards the front of the car slightly.
Mine too :confused: |
The swivel link should be perpendicular (up & down) relative to the top bar of the torque arm. If it is not (swivel links slanted) then the torque arm will either try to bias the rearend either forward or rearward during acceleration or deceleration depending on what direction and how severly it is off. This will also cause some binding and weaken or damage the torque arm or other things.
When the swivel links are aligned correctly there will be zero binding and zero unwanted force being applied to the rear-end. Recently I decided to replace the metal ball joint with the poly bushings to reduce the clunk noise, which it did very well I might add. This required the ball joint to be removed from the torque arm and be replaced with an "eye" type end that holds the two poly bushings. When the new end was threaded all the way in the alignment was going to be off toward the front causing the swivel links to face forward a good bit. This would be bad if left that way. I had to cut about 3/8" off the tip of the torque arm to shorten it some and it is now perfectly aligned. "Z-rated94" and "Always faster", you guys should consider doing this. |
Well thats go'in to be another pain in the butt. What kind of 60 ft. times are you cutting? I really can't complain about the 1.65's.
|
Originally Posted by Z-RATED94
(Post 4910319)
Well thats go'in to be another pain in the butt. What kind of 60 ft. times are you cutting? I really can't complain about the 1.65's.
I would not want to mess this up considering the amount of force and movement that the track arm must "control" under race conditions behind a high performance SBC. BTW I had my TA off in less than fifteen minutes, not that hard to do. |
I understand your point. But it would have been nice to have the proper adjustment requirements from the get go. Don't get me wrong, I love this piece of workmanship.
|
Even with the upper torque arm bar fully shortened, it is still slightly too long to be perfectly above the lower mount.
I don't know if I can loosen the 4 crossmember bolts and try to slide it towards the front of the vehicle a few millimeters or what. Now on the pinion angle, my driveshaft points down (\) near the rear of the car at -1º and the front of the rear differential points down (/) toward the front of the car at a +1º. It does make a "V" pointing down and I think it is set up correctly. So the equation (-1)-(+1)=-2 would be the correct pinion angle, correct? You want there to be a 2º difference between the driveshaft angle and the differential angle, right? |
Sounds like you did it right. And I too, go for no more then -2.
|
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:51 PM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands