Adj vs. Non-Adj
Adj vs. Non-Adj
Im going to be modding my suspension soon and i just want to know some basics. Is it worth the extra $ to get adustable parts as opposed to non-adjustable. Whats the best bang for buck brand out there. And what all should i get. Its going to be pretty much a street car that see's the track 1-2 times a years. Im not really looking for a drag setup but i just want a better suspension. Also i would like to lower it about 2 inches. Any help would be appreciated.
Re: Adj vs. Non-Adj
For the most part, not worth it. If you don't know what you're doing, stay non-adjustable. The only adjustable parts you'll want is a PHB (have to adjust if you lower) and TA. Coil overs wouldn't be bad either. 2" drop on a street car is kamakazi. Especially if NE roads are like other mid-west roads.
Re: Adj vs. Non-Adj
Lowering the car can cause the body to shift relative to the axle (left to right), thus causing your tires to potential hit the body driving over bumps. An adjustable panhard rod will allow you to correct for this shift.
IMO, lowering a car 2" will comprimise handling; a 1" drop would be fine You should upgrade your shocks when you have the springs done, and upgrade sway bars. A lot of us like the 35mm hollow front, 21mm rear sway bars.
Give Sam Strano a call (stranoparts.com). He's a F-Body suspension expert and can help you choose components for your driving style.
IMO, lowering a car 2" will comprimise handling; a 1" drop would be fine You should upgrade your shocks when you have the springs done, and upgrade sway bars. A lot of us like the 35mm hollow front, 21mm rear sway bars.
Give Sam Strano a call (stranoparts.com). He's a F-Body suspension expert and can help you choose components for your driving style.
Re: Adj vs. Non-Adj
lowering the car more than about 1" will compromise the geometry of the suspension. even with a 1" drop you have to change the alignment specs on the front end. if you go more than that, the stock upper and lower a-arms won't hang with the tolerance change. you wont even be able to set enough camber to get into the 0 area. stock setup is 3* camber. if you go 1" lower, it's 4* camber, and if you go with a 1.75" drop, it's 5* camber. the ball joints on the upper a-arm will not be able to maintain that 5* and will snap when you need it the most.
Re: Adj vs. Non-Adj
If lowering you will want to spend the extra for the adjust PHB.
Control arms arent necessary needed to be adjustable. If you do go adjustable use a set with sepherical rod ends, they help to eliminate rear end bind. If you are lowering I assume you want to handle and these are the way to go
Control arms arent necessary needed to be adjustable. If you do go adjustable use a set with sepherical rod ends, they help to eliminate rear end bind. If you are lowering I assume you want to handle and these are the way to go
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