I have a 95 bird with the abs and brake light on in the dash.

I have a dana 60 rear, and used the stock sensor. It worked for the whole summer I put it in.

Now this year I got the car out of storage, and the damn abs light is on. I asume one of the sensors is not happy. How can you test each sensor (the one for the rear or the two up front) to see if they are good or not?

I dont really need abs because I know how to drive, but the lights on the dash bug me, and I want to fix it the correct way..

Thanks!!
Cody

 

I assume you have the Strange version of the Dana 60. If they are using the same 3-channel ABS sensor they used in their 12-bolt, its not very reliable, and difficult to keep in adjustment. I gave up on mine.

But you have to solve the "BRAKE" problem first. That light (assuming you don't have the e-brake handle pulled up, or the swtich for the e-brake isn't broken) tells you there is a pressure imbalance between the front and rear braking systems. You need to find out why that light is on. I suspect that when the "BRAKE" light comes on because of a pressure problem, the EBCM deactivates the ABS and turns the "ABS INOP" light on.

 

I guess I didn't realize they were different. Good to know!

My ebrake is off, Ill look at the switch first for the ebrake. If that doesn't solve it, how would I even begin to look at a pressure imbalance between the front and rear brakes?

 

sorry and yes, I do have the strange dana 60 rear using the stock GM sensor.

 

since I had to take the center counsel out anyway to get the shifter off to remove the tranny while doing the street twin upgrade, I looked at the ebrake switch. The copper contacts were pretty corroded and crappy. I took some sandpaper to them, and we shall see what happens when it is running again. Thanks for that heads up!

Cody

 

sandpaper didn't work. The brake AND abs lights are both still illuminated. Anything else that kicks on just the brake light? ABS is probably that damn sensor in the rear.

 

The "BRAKE" light normally only comes on for the two reasons I mentioned in my post. Other possibility would be a defective differential pressure switch or shorted wires to the switch.

The differential pressure switch can get "stuck".... happens sometimes with a line lock. The "cure" is to brake real hard. Will ususaly pop a stuck switch loose. Just make sure you do this in a large, empty parking lot, in case the BRAKE light is on because the brakes are failing.

 

I read somewhere that the trans am spoiler's third brake light can set it off? is this true? I do have the TA hatch on my formy. The brake light hasn't been on before. The locking switch might be it too, it has sat for some time. Ill have to go do a power stop to see if I cant get it un-stuck. :P

 

I did have a burned out third brake bulb, they both work now. But that damn light is still on. I also did a couple of hard braking to loosen the switch, but the light is still on. I dont think that was the problem. It stopped straight too, no darting one way or the other on locking up the rear or front.

How does one go about testing each ABS sensor?

 

UPDATE: I started from scratch, checked the wiring from each sensor up to the switch. I found the right front sensor wiring was grounding out on the body where it comes out of the engine bay and into the wheel well. I put some plastic tubing over it and the lights went out. Yes, both brake lights are now off. YAY!!!

 

Good job!!

Interesting to know that a problem with the ABS sensor wire also turns on the "BRAKE" light. I didn't know that.

 

I suppose that there isn't much you can learn from this board these days, huh? Glad I could be a part of it! haha.

I am happy I dont have to stare at those idiot lights anymore. Now moving on to vibrations...