? about wheel hop when shifting at the track
? about wheel hop when shifting at the track
I've never had a problem with wheelhop when shifting on the street, but last night at the track I had my shocks set at 4 all around and when I would shift into second and third the rear would wheelhop and want to kick to the right. I tried to solve this by stiffening the rear shocks to 8, then 10, and finally 12 and it did it every time.
Does anyone know what would cause this?
Here are the suspension pieces I have: QA1's 12-way adj. all around, BMR LCA, BMR Torque Arm, BMR Panhard Rod.
Do I need the LCA relocation brackets?
Does anyone know what would cause this?
Here are the suspension pieces I have: QA1's 12-way adj. all around, BMR LCA, BMR Torque Arm, BMR Panhard Rod.
Do I need the LCA relocation brackets?
Are your LCAs parallel to the chassis of the car when loaded?
Mine weren't and that is why I went with relo brackets and new control arms. I was getting horrific wheel hop when hitting 2nd gear. They've only been on for two days and I can't test the car right away. I bought the brackets because Injuneer told in one of his posts that of all the changes made, the relocation of the control arms made the biggest difference when it came to wheel hop. At least that's what I thought I understood.
Mine weren't and that is why I went with relo brackets and new control arms. I was getting horrific wheel hop when hitting 2nd gear. They've only been on for two days and I can't test the car right away. I bought the brackets because Injuneer told in one of his posts that of all the changes made, the relocation of the control arms made the biggest difference when it came to wheel hop. At least that's what I thought I understood.
So when you say loaded, you mean while the car is on the ground correct? And they should be parallel? My car is back home at my parents house so I will have to remember to check when I go back.
It's just strange because it has never done this before, unless something got screwed up last time I went to the track and set the shocks full loose and it wheel hopped every time I took off. But still it doesn't do it on the street.
It's just strange because it has never done this before, unless something got screwed up last time I went to the track and set the shocks full loose and it wheel hopped every time I took off. But still it doesn't do it on the street.
Yes, the full weight needs to be on the tires (or axles) and the LCAs should be parallel or perhaps a tiny bit low on the axle to plant the tires.
When I pulled my factory LCAs one end was loose. This and any other play will get the suspension bouncing. For instances, once you experience hop any loose joint will take the impact and wear that much more quickly. Definitely check your LCAs and consider relocation brackets anyway. I have bolt-ons from J&M products. BTW, the ride feels more firm with the new LCAs and a noise over light bumps is gone. In other words, the car feels new.
When I pulled my factory LCAs one end was loose. This and any other play will get the suspension bouncing. For instances, once you experience hop any loose joint will take the impact and wear that much more quickly. Definitely check your LCAs and consider relocation brackets anyway. I have bolt-ons from J&M products. BTW, the ride feels more firm with the new LCAs and a noise over light bumps is gone. In other words, the car feels new.
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