Here's some pics of my homade direct mount 9" Torque Arm. It survived 1 full season of 6000 RPM launches, saved over 20# of attachment brackets and castings, and eliminated anoying clunking due to multiple bolted connections and link joints.








Enjoy,

Steve

 

Really small pics, I can barely see the difference. Maybe post some links to full size pics.

 

How did you set pinion angle. Did you get lucky and get it right the first time.

Re;

 

I made all the welds except the two tube welds at the back. fit every thing up in the car, set pinion angle, tacked rear tubes, removed ta and made final welds. Ended up with about -1*

 

SABLT I'm trying to put a ST10 behind a ZZ4 and hook it up to a Currie 9" with this 1/2" receiver that they have. The vehicle is an 87 F-body. So fabbing up a torque arm like you did is a good alternative to the Spohn or Global options.

Can you post larger images that detail your setup and how you set the pinion angle? I would also like to know if you are running the stock rear end?

Thnx

 

See if these work better for you.


http://render2.snapfish.com/render2/.../of=50,590,442

http://render2.snapfish.com/render2/.../of=50,590,442

http://render2.snapfish.com/render2/.../of=50,590,442

http://render2.snapfish.com/render2/.../of=50,590,442


I'm running a Moser Housing with a Strange Pro-nodular center. I don't know if the ribs on other center housings will clear every thing. Pinion angle is not adjustable after the final welds are made. I'm using the BMR style Urethane front bushing/slider and used the OEM bushing mount (modified of course) to hold the BMR style bushing. If your "in to" tweeking pinion angle to try to get more traction this arrangement is not for you. I'm a set it and forget it type as I've never seen any 60' improvements in various pinion angles as long as they're within reason.

The advantage of this setup is the obvious weight savings and reduction of slack due to multiple bolted or pinned connections.

Steve