Suspension, Chassis, and Brakes Shocks, springs, cages, brakes, sub-frame connectors, etc.

35mm FT sway installed.. OMG!!

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Old Aug 12, 2007 | 10:47 PM
  #1  
Bayer-Z28's Avatar
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From: N Falmouth MA
Thumbs up 35mm FT sway installed.. OMG!!

What a difference... You snap the wheel and she goes! I took the LONG turn leaving base today at about 90 and it felt like it could have handled a LOT more!

oh yeah.. It's the 35mm Ft Hollow sway from Strano.. To add to my laundry list of suspension mods.. Granted I could use a better spring/shock combo (Want the Koni shock and Strano springs).. I just need the rear bar and new DD SFC's instead of the tubulars..

Here's the susp list as it is now..

Strano 35mm Front Hollow sway, w/ Urethane Bushings
Hotchkis Lower Control Arms w/ Polyurethane Bushings
BMR Chromemoly Adjustable Torque Arm W/ Poly Bushing
BMR Chromemoly Shock Tower Bar
BMR Chromemoly Tubular Subframe connectors
BMR Chromemoly Adjustable Panhard Bar
BMR LCA Relocation Brackets
Eibach Pro Kit Springs
Bilstien Shocks
Energy Suspension Trans Mount
Good Year Eagle F1 GSD3 Tires.

THe new bar compared to the old one.. I don't know why I didn't get an installed pic.. The stocker is for sale if anyone wants it (PM for details)..



Here's the vid of the LONG turn leaving base.. (older vid)

Last edited by Bayer-Z28; Aug 12, 2007 at 10:51 PM.
Old Aug 13, 2007 | 01:58 AM
  #2  
porksoda's Avatar
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From: Clovis, New Mexico
Why do you want to change subframe connectors?
Old Aug 13, 2007 | 11:08 AM
  #3  
MyShibbyZ28's Avatar
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Originally Posted by porksoda
Why do you want to change subframe connectors?
Boxed is stronger than tubular.
Old Aug 13, 2007 | 11:58 AM
  #4  
TobyZ28's Avatar
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From: BC
My car was night and day after the 35mm bar as well Like you I need to do the rear next, i can notice the rear being not quite "balanced" in really hard turns. For 99% of every day driving though the rear seems fine to me, and it took a bit of relearning on the car to notice the slight sloppyness in the rear
Old Aug 13, 2007 | 01:54 PM
  #5  
Capn Pete's Avatar
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From: Oshawa - Home of the 5th-gen
Yeah, I think I'll probably be going with the full Strano setup (springs, bars, Konis) next spring ..... I've heard too many good things!! And since I've been tracking my car now, it REALLY shows (I literally have picture proof! ) how much body roll my car gets . On the same corner, the outside front tire will be almost tucked into the fender well, while the inside tire has nearly a ~6" space to the bottom of the fender lip!! It's REALLY amazing!?!
Old Aug 13, 2007 | 06:28 PM
  #6  
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From: FTW, TX
Originally Posted by MyShibbyZ28
Boxed is stronger than tubular.
Only if the boxed is a much larger diameter. Round tubing had more torsional rigidity than square of the same cross sectional area.
Old Aug 13, 2007 | 08:48 PM
  #7  
Bayer-Z28's Avatar
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From: N Falmouth MA
Originally Posted by porksoda
Why do you want to change subframe connectors?
I want the full under car connected. DD's do a better job of connecting both sides of the car.. -It makes sense to me.

Originally Posted by MyShibbyZ28
Boxed is stronger than tubular.
Originally Posted by Greed4Speed
Only if the boxed is a much larger diameter. Round tubing had more torsional rigidity than square of the same cross sectional area.
I was thinking the same about the torsional strength of the tubular.. but I want a better overall connection to the car.

Originally Posted by toby360
My car was night and day after the 35mm bar as well Like you I need to do the rear next, i can notice the rear being not quite "balanced" in really hard turns. For 99% of every day driving though the rear seems fine to me, and it took a bit of relearning on the car to notice the slight sloppyness in the rear
I do notice the rear being a bit sloppy in hard turns, but yeah.. as far as daily driving.. it's fine. I can't believe how solid the front end feels now!
Old Aug 14, 2007 | 06:33 PM
  #8  
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From: FTW, TX
Originally Posted by Bayer-Z28
I was thinking the same about the torsional strength of the tubular.. but I want a better overall connection to the car.
Just get the same tubing and turn your current SFC's into DD's. I'm sure there is a chassis shop or welder in your area that could hook you up. There was someone who had an add on kit that did just that. I doubt you'll see much if any improvement though.

IMO you'd be better off and end up with a safer car by going with a roll cage if you want your frame totally connected.
Old Aug 14, 2007 | 06:39 PM
  #9  
Bayer-Z28's Avatar
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From: N Falmouth MA
^ the roll cage will be later on down the line.. I wanted to get a small 6 pt for now tho.. I've allways thought it looked badass.............. And the structural rigidity is a plus of course..

It's Chromemoly Tubing.. If I can find it it could prolly do it myself. I can weld no problem. I'd just need a drive on, a welder and a lot of time to fab. And an angle grinder..
Old Aug 17, 2007 | 01:32 PM
  #10  
Sam Strano's Avatar
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From: Brookville, PA
I'd recommend working the suspension over the chassis. You have SFC's already, and we've proven time and time again that you do not need them for handling purposes. Are they bad? No, not at all. But I don't have them, I've got customers who went FASTER after removing them in competitions, they add weight, and the cars aren't exactly wet noodles.

Yes they help impact harshness, so will some good shocks. And shocks will help other things like roll and pitch rate generation, SFC's won't.
Old Aug 20, 2007 | 06:46 PM
  #11  
jorgez28's Avatar
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From: Tx USA
Originally Posted by Bayer-Z28
^ the roll cage will be later on down the line.. I wanted to get a small 6 pt for now tho.. I've allways thought it looked badass.............. And the structural rigidity is a plus of course..

It's Chromemoly Tubing.. If I can find it it could prolly do it myself. I can weld no problem. I'd just need a drive on, a welder and a lot of time to fab. And an angle grinder..
Hey man how does your car ride with all the work you have done is it rougher than the stock ride? Glad to see some one from area!
Old Aug 23, 2007 | 03:40 AM
  #12  
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From: Shelton, WA
Originally Posted by Bayer-Z28
What a difference... You snap the wheel and she goes! I took the LONG turn leaving base today at about 90 and it felt like it could have handled a LOT more!

oh yeah.. It's the 35mm Ft Hollow sway from Strano.. To add to my laundry list of suspension mods.. Granted I could use a better spring/shock combo (Want the Koni shock and Strano springs).. I just need the rear bar and new DD SFC's instead of the tubulars..

Here's the susp list as it is now..

Strano 35mm Front Hollow sway, w/ Urethane Bushings
Hotchkis Lower Control Arms w/ Polyurethane Bushings
BMR Chromemoly Adjustable Torque Arm W/ Poly Bushing
BMR Chromemoly Shock Tower Bar
BMR Chromemoly Tubular Subframe connectors
BMR Chromemoly Adjustable Panhard Bar
BMR LCA Relocation Brackets
Eibach Pro Kit Springs
Bilstien Shocks
Energy Suspension Trans Mount
Good Year Eagle F1 GSD3 Tires.

THe new bar compared to the old one.. I don't know why I didn't get an installed pic.. The stocker is for sale if anyone wants it (PM for details)..



Here's the vid of the LONG turn leaving base.. (older vid)
Wow, that sure looks like a fun stretch of road to drive.

This is what I have for suspension mods:
Strano 35mm Hollow Front Sway Bar
Strano 22mm Hollow Rear Sway Bar
Eibach Pro Kit Springs 1.5" Drop
Bilstein HD Shocks
Lakewood Boxed Rear Lower Control Arms
Lakewood Adjustable Panhard Bar
Kenny Brown Double Diamond Subframe Connectors
SLP Shock Tower Brace
Energy Suspension Polyurethane Bushings

The sway bars are the last thing I added. OMG was my first reaction too. I've had them on over a year now and those things still amaze me. I'd definitely recommend them to anyone.
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