I miss my '91 TA and have become less appreciative of my '95 TA mainly due to the sloppy handling characteristics of the new car (which I've owned for 8mo's). The car, silver in color, could also use a more agressive look.

I am undecided between 2 options:

1. DMS Lowering Springs + new SLP Take-offs, KYB's, or Bilsteins

2. Front 35mm swaybar + $ leftover for tint + stereo headunit

Advice anyone? thanks!
Brian

 

You will see a dramatic improvement with the 35mm front swaybar, steering will be very crisp...your car will still feel somewhat "spongy" though.

Factory shocks on our 4th gens usually have had after the first 30,000 miles, how many miles you have? Chances are, your shocks are history.

Most folks here would advise you to call Sam Strano, he has much info on our 4th gens..

It is better not to skimp on your shocks & springs, especially the shock factor. If you are mostly a street driver, you could get away with KYB's, Bilstien's are better, revalved Bilsteins with Eibach Pro Kit springs are a very VERY nice setup.

Much better are the Koni single adjustable in the fronts & 3rd gen Bilstiens in the rear with Eibach Pro Kit springs, you will need to save your $$$ either way.

Spending the extra few bucks will be worth it.

BTW, DMS springs will be just fine as well.

 

Just ordered that setup from Strano last week Just won't come in till the end of the month Koni doesn't have enough supply to keep up w/ demand.

Carlos, haven't talked to you in awhile, do you got AIM?

 

First off, don't order SLP takeoffs, they are just stock parts. If you are going to order from SLP get the Firehawk/SS Level II replacement springs, and then get some good shocks. You can use the SLP Bilsteins that are matched to these springs, but if you really want better handling I'd recommend Koni SA/DA in the front and either Koni SAs, Bilstein HDs, or 3rd gen Bilsteins in the rear. The Level II kit (SLP springs and SLP Bilsteins, plus 32mm front bar) that came stock on my Firehawk were dramatically better for handling than any of the stock 4th gen f-bodies I've owned, and actually rode better too. Since upgrading to just Koni DAs on the front (although I only use the rebound (same as SA) adjustment except on the roadcourse) and getting a better alignment it again improved dramatically.

If I were in your shoes, I'd do the following:
* Koni SAs for the front (and use the lower mounting point which will lower about .5" from stock)
* Bilstein HD rears
* Remove rear upper spring mount and use garden hose around top coil (lowers the rear approx .5")
* get a 35mm bar
* Finally, get a good alignment. The factory alignment specs on these cars stink. You really want:
max negative camber
max positive caster
0 to 1/32 toe in
1/32 toe in will help reduce "tramlinig", while 0 toe will make the steering feel "quicker"

 

Well first of all. I think i would get some Bisteing HD's. And maybe either 35 hollow or solid bar. . After this you car should be much better also get her aligned. thanks

 

Thanks for the great advice I'll give Sam a call soon.

Between the:

35mm hollow car -- VS -- DMS lowering springs + struts/shocks

Which will show the better handling improvement? The car is a daily driver & doesn't see the dragstrip or autoX course. I've got SFC's but the car (62k mi) is still very floaty around the corners and bouncy across speed bumps.

Also, true?

thanks, Brian

 

I would talk to sam. But here is mine thing your not autox or drag racing. I would get revalved bilsteins 495 with 3rd gens in the rears. And in a couple of months save up the 150 or watch the board some is getting rid of the 35mm soild for sam's bar. Shocks will make the car NOT floaty. That is the biggest thing right here, get good shocks. I wouldn't get anyless shock than a revalved with any spring to be on the safe side espciall the DMS springs. hope that helps or pm me

 

quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
you could get away with KYB's
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

true?

thanks, Brian

You can get away with KYB's Brian, and, talk to Sam, I have a few friends that have KYB shocks with Eibach Pro springs, I'm just not too sure how the ride performance/quality is...
Reason? Maybe the springs are a bit too stiff for the valving of the KYB's, so you may feel some bounce to them, I'm pretty sure the DMS springs are stiffer than the Eibach Pros, and I KNOW the Pro's are stiffer than the SLP SS/Firehawk springs (Also made by Eibach BTW, they're a tad softer than the Eibach Pro's.)...

I know that you are itchy to get rid of the shocks, maybe get the springs later??? The pro's/con's to that idea is the fact that, the front springs need to be removed anyway to change the front struts, so WTF, do them at the same time...

Sam will lead you the right way, be honest, tell him what you want now, and what you want in the future, he will give you some good ideas...

Let us know what you do!

Coolformula is definitely right about good shocks stopping that "floaty" feel.

LT4firehawk's suggestion of the SS/Firehawk springs & Bilstiens, bottom line, you can't go wrong with that, your f-body won't be the same, believe me. You will have a fine handling machine. Don't forget the 35mm hollow front swaybar, that'll enhance your diving into the turns big time.
Depending on how aggressive you are(or aren't!), you could get away with the 32mm front swaybar...Still much better than factory.

 

If I were in your shoes, I'd do the following:
* Koni SAs for the front (and use the lower mounting point which will lower about .5" from stock)
* Bilstein HD rears
* Remove rear upper spring mount and use garden hose around top coil (lowers the rear approx .5")
* get a 35mm bar
* Finally, get a good alignment. The factory alignment specs on these cars stink. You really want:

I just put on this set up and IT IS AWESOME! Still running the stock specs for alignment, though. The ride quility is awesome and the handling has blown my mind. I didn't think a 3500 ld car would ever handle this well. You can go with the solid bar, but it is about 14 lds hearvier then the hollow bar. The hollow bar is only about a pund heavier then the stock bar. After the shipping changes they work out to costing about the same.

 

Thanks for all the info, VERY helpful Not confused anymore but torn between decisions:

$: 35mm swaybar + take-offs (or KYB) to replace 62k oem

$$$: bmr/dms springs + bilstein HD's

question, can the bilsteins handle DMS & BMR springs for street/canyon carving purposes? i've been lookin up spring rates HERE and noticed the DMS = Prokit +/- a few lbs. BMR is a bit stiffer out back.

 

Okay, see? Now we're talking Linear rate springs vs. Progressive rate springs, the DMS springs are progressive, somewhat soft initially, then can stiffen up to, what was that, 600lbs? The Eibach's have the same rate, hence linear. What are the differences performance-wise??? I don't know, honestly, but you know who would???

Sam, he can give you the lowdown on the springs, he has had experience with the different rate settings, linear vs. progressive. I'm pretty sure that having stiffer rear springs on the BMR's may not be necessary, I'm thinking a little bit softer rear springs with great rear shocks should do the trick...

 

cool. thanks again

 

ground controll coil over kit with some 550-600 #/in front and 150-175 #/in rear


example:
My car stock....sloppy
Friends car stock...sloppy

My mods....
I did all that stuff to my car, everything bmr makes from SFC, STB, kmember and a-arms, PHR LCS and then eibachs with bilsteins
better, but still sloppy

her mods
coil over kit with revalved bistiens
amazing

about $450 from ground control, fully adjustable heigth

 

Don't get progressive springs! These springs that go up to 600 is way too much, epsecially unless you got a great shock. I wouldn't get HD's and springs. I would get more of a shock. Like revalved Bilsteins. And the bar. OR get revalved in a linear ebiach(ls1 springs from ebiach is what sam likes98-02 1.5) I think you getting DMS springs and HD'=still sloppy not enough of a spring damper(shock) to dampen the rebound. How much money do you got about 500? I would get revalved Bilsteins then save up for a front bar hence bar is kinda like adding stiffer spring. Don't get a bad combo, get something that works good for you.

 

Good word, lots to think about here.

& still sloppy? Kind of surprised. Do you have a 32 or 35mm bar?

Progressive or linear, hmM, choices choices