I need some help with Wheel Hop. if I really get on it from a slow roll it wheel hops sometimes.
I have a 1995 Camaro Z28 M6, Stock Springs, Koni STR.T Shocks, new poly bumpstops, Tires are BFGoodrich g-Force COMP-2 A/S 275/40ZR17. HP upgrades are SLP Headers, mild cam, magnaflow exhaust and CAI. Car has 160km (100k Miles)
I dont know much about suspension so im not sure where to start. could my bushings just be worn in my Rear Lower Control Arms? how would I go about checking them?

From my research it seems I need to get some UMI lower control arms, UMI relocation brackets, and maybe a panhard bar?
Would love to hear how some of you guys solved your wheel hop.
any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks!

 

If you’re not lowered, and not planning to ever be, then lower control arm relocation brackets and adjustable pan hard bar aren’t necessary. The relocation brackets are meant to restore the stock geometry of the lower control arms on a lowered car, and the adjustable pan hard bar is to recenter the rearend on a lowered car. That said, you will benefit from a set of lower control arms from UMI or BMR as well as a non adjustable pan hard bar from either company…

 

Take a look under the car on a flat surface. If the height of the front of you LCA (at the body) is below the height at the rear of the LCA (at the rear axle), it’s the ideal setup for wheel hop under hard acceleration. Even if it’s close to level or even level, it could be a problem. Worn LCA bushings can cause the geometry to worsen under load. If the springs have weakened, or the shocks are worn to the point where they can’t resist squat under acceleration, adds to the problem.

Back when my Formula was closer to stock - T56, some bolt-ons, 3.73's in a Strange 12-bolt, stock springs, QA1 adjustables set to mid stiffness, Spohn LCA's/poly bushings, Spohn panhard bar, Spohn torque arm - wheel hop was fairly common. Steve Spohn installed a set of his weld-in relocation brackets and the wheel hop went away. Never came back, even pushing big HP/torque.

See Steve's description for non-lowered cars (scroll down):

https://www.spohn.net/shop/1993-1997...Rear-Ends.html

 

Thanks for everyone's help and suggestions.

I went ahead and ordered the following from Summit, hopefully it will be the end of my wheel hop issues:

UMI Performance 2205-R - UMI Transmission Mounted Adjustable Torque Arm
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/UPI-2205-R

UMI Performance 2012-R - UMI Performance Control Arm Relocation Brackets
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/UPI-2012-R

UMI Performance 2016-R - UMI Performance Rear Adjustable Lower Control Arms
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/UPI-2016-R

UMI Performance 3007 - UMI Performance Angle Finders
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/UPI-3007

ACDelco 15820075 - ACDelco GM Genuine Parts Transmission Mounts
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ado-15820075

 

All of that is a bit overkill, but I have no doubt if installed properly, that should eliminate your wheel hop problem. I’d adjust everything to factory lengths though since you’re not lowered…

 

lol, i know its overkill, just want to make sure i dont have to worry about wheel hop anymore. plus it gives me something to work on!

 

As in 'Injuneers' post #3, my wheel hop stopped with only the use of bolt-in relocation brackets (using the lowest hole).

 

thanks for the info, is your car lowered or stock height?

 

Stock height, I do too much travelling with it to take a chance on road surfaces.

 

did you try it on the upper holes first and still have wheel hop? or did you go right to the bottom holes?
Thanks

 

No,did not try it with the upper holes first, went with the lower holes immediately, I was after improved traction.
In your case, rear ends with an M6 are hurt/harmed/broken by wheel hop and traction, so thread lightly.
Being that I'm A4 I even fabricated relocation bracket extensions to have even lower holes yet.