Stroker Kit Sale @ VRE
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Joined: Jun 2005
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From: Eastpointe,Michigan
Stroker Kit Sale @ VRE
Eagle Competition "ESP" Rotating Assemblies consists of ESP forged 4340 Crankshafts, ESP pin fit 4340 H-Beam 3-D Connecting Rods, SRP/JE forged pistons and wrist pins, and file-fit piston rings. These kits also include Federal Mogul or Clevite Main and Rod Bearings.
EAG-12103 Eagle 355ci Competition Rotating Assemby, 3.480" 4340 Forged Crankshaft, 6.000" Eagle H-Beam Rods, -5cc Flat Top SRP Pistons, File-Fit Rings $1499.99
EAG-12133 Eagle 355ci Competition Rotating Assembly, 3.480" Forged 4340 Crankshaft, 5.700" Eagle H-Beam Rods, -5cc SRP Forged Pistons, File-Fit Rings $1549.99
EAG-12129 Eagle 355ci Competition Rotating Assembly, 3.480" Eagle 4340 Crankshaft, 5.700" Eagle H-Beam Rods, -24cc Dish SRP Pistons, File-Fit Rings $1499.99
EAG-12106 Eagle 383ci Competition Stroker Kit, Eagle 3.750" 4340 Crankshaft, Eagle 5.700" H-Beam Rods, -31cc Dish SRP Forged Pistons, File-Fit Rings $1499.99
EAG-12111 Eagle 383ci Competition Stroker Kit, Eagle 4340 3.750" Crankshaft, Eagle 6.000" H-Beam Rods, -5cc SRP Forged Pistons, File-Fit Rings $1499.99
EAG-12125 Eagle 383ci Competition Stroker Kit, Eagle 4340 3.750" Crankshaft, Eagle 5.850" H-Beam Rods, -5cc SRP Forged Pistons, File-Fit Rings $1499.99
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,729
From: Eastpointe,Michigan
Re: Stroker Kit Sale @ VRE
There is no set in stone number where the parts are going to fail. Let me know how much power you plan on making, and I will make some product recommendations.
Originally Posted by CamaroRacing12
HP Limits?
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 2,272
From: Georgia
bringing the thread back from a few days...i'll probably be doing a rebuild if I have to, but I don't think I need an all forged set up. I'm using the CC305 with LE1 heads and the car will never see nitrous or any type of forced induction. Would I be ok with cast parts? wouldn't imagine I would be making enough power to need forged parts?
Here is my situation...I had my shortblock put together by an engine shop and at just under 500 miles I have rod knock. I waited too long to put it all in and so the warrenty ran out on it. I can't remember exactly wha parts were used and he is ignoring all my emails and phone calls now, so I have pretty much lost that round. The block had all the cleaning, boring, and all that fun stuff done to it at .030 over.
With you being an engine builder; i'm seeking your professional opinion before I start to get the motivation to tear my car apart again. would it be ok to replace just the crank and the rod(s) that are knocking along with all bearings?? My only draw back is that I would love to go a stroker 383 route, but I would have to buy it in pieces instead of a "kit" due to my money situation.
Guess I could sell the two lt1 blocks that I have
Here is my situation...I had my shortblock put together by an engine shop and at just under 500 miles I have rod knock. I waited too long to put it all in and so the warrenty ran out on it. I can't remember exactly wha parts were used and he is ignoring all my emails and phone calls now, so I have pretty much lost that round. The block had all the cleaning, boring, and all that fun stuff done to it at .030 over.
With you being an engine builder; i'm seeking your professional opinion before I start to get the motivation to tear my car apart again. would it be ok to replace just the crank and the rod(s) that are knocking along with all bearings?? My only draw back is that I would love to go a stroker 383 route, but I would have to buy it in pieces instead of a "kit" due to my money situation.
Guess I could sell the two lt1 blocks that I have
Last edited by Chevycobb; Oct 26, 2006 at 08:14 PM.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,729
From: Eastpointe,Michigan
Definitey replace the bearings, and have the the crankshaft inspected. It is possible that you can just have it turned and polished, depending on how bad it is. Hopefully you will only need to purchase bearings, and pay a little for labor at the machine shop.
