LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

combo motorsports vs nu-tek?

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Old Mar 5, 2003 | 07:15 AM
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94droptopz's Avatar
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combo motorsports vs nu-tek?

i see a lot of advertisement for combo on this board but i dont understand why. i called them about a forged 396 kit and they quoted me about 4K. nu-tek quoted me about 2020.00 ballanced. why is combo so much more expensive? combo is a lunati setup and nu-tek is a callies setup,both are good kits but man what a price difference. anyways ,opinions needed.
Old Mar 5, 2003 | 07:17 AM
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Unless you list all individual pieces, there is no way to intelligently compare.
Old Mar 5, 2003 | 07:56 AM
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I"m looking into something quite similar, so if you can list the parts, that would help figuring this out. Thanks.
Old Mar 5, 2003 | 09:24 AM
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this is the nu-tek kit--Callies Dragon Slayer 3.875 crank/ Eagle 5.850" H-beam rods/ SRP 14cc dished pistons/ Speed Pro rings & bearings $2050 (add $250 for balancing)

the combonation motorsports kit is-- lunati forged 3.875/lunati forged 12cc dished pistons/lunati 6" h-beam rods/ no price on them balancing

i know lunati is quality stuff but callies is pretty good too so i dont see where the huge price difference is.
Old Mar 5, 2003 | 09:35 AM
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Could one be for an assembled short block and the other just the internals? *shrug*
Old Mar 5, 2003 | 09:39 AM
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From what I understand, the Callies Dragon Slayer is a lesser crank than their top-end ones that they're known for. The Eagle rods and SRP pistons also make the nu-tek kit much less expensive. Combo also may be charging more for machine work, clearancing, assembly, etc. What series Lunati rods is combo offering? I know the Lunati Pro Mods are very expensive (about $700 avg). As a side note, a 6" rod is better for a 383 unless you're spraying, so I hear. Hope this helps.

JR
Old Mar 5, 2003 | 10:01 AM
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I am guessing CM quoted you for an assemblied shortblock. I would call them again to make sure. There is no reason that a Lunati rotating asm should be that expensive.
Old Mar 5, 2003 | 10:01 AM
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well i want the 5.850 rod on my 396 which i will be spraying a little. i guess combo is a better made kit with more high dollar parts but i dont think its needed for what im doing. im planning on about 400 hp with a 100 shot every once in awhile so i htink the nu-tek will be ok for me. thanks guys
Rob
Old Mar 5, 2003 | 10:33 AM
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For that power, the nu-tek kit will be fine. Make sure it will allow your desired compression ratio. Good luck!

JR
Old Mar 5, 2003 | 11:13 AM
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This is Seth @ Cmotorsports.com I'm not sure who you talked to, but it sounds to me like somebody here was confused and either quoted you an LS1 396 rotating assembly or an LT1 396 shortblock. Our price on the Callies kit is $2040, which uses the Callies Pro I-Beam billet rod made by Oliver. For the Eagle rod setup, call for pricing, but it's around $200 less. Thanks for your time.
Old Mar 5, 2003 | 12:35 PM
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Originally posted by FastGuyJR
From what I understand, the Callies Dragon Slayer is a lesser crank than their top-end ones that they're known for. The Eagle rods and SRP pistons also make the nu-tek kit much less expensive. Combo also may be charging more for machine work, clearancing, assembly, etc. What series Lunati rods is combo offering? I know the Lunati Pro Mods are very expensive (about $700 avg). As a side note, a 6" rod is better for a 383 unless you're spraying, so I hear. Hope this helps.

JR
I would use a 6" rod even with spray. (I might even go up to a 6.125" rod) The only time I would use a 5.875" rod is with a blower or turbo. I know its kind of off topic but if you want to know more run a search in the advanced tech section on rod length.
Old Mar 5, 2003 | 02:07 PM
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I wouldn't go any higher than a 6" rod. It's just more clearancing in the block. I went with a 5.7" rod on my blower motor to add a little more room in the cylinder. A 6" rod would've put the wrist pin too close to the top. In hindsight, I probably should've ran a 1/8" bigger rod, but could've...would've...should've, right?

either quoted you an LS1 396 rotating assembly or an LT1 396 shortblock
Big ups to me for calling that one!!
Old Mar 5, 2003 | 02:26 PM
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mongse_1-Big ups to me for calling that one!!

I stand corrected

well cool deal seth. i've heard nothing but great things about you guys so if you can compare to the price of nu-tek with the eagle h-beam rods then i'll definantly go with you. i'll be calling fri. to figure it all out.thanks again guys for the replys
Rob
Old Mar 5, 2003 | 05:09 PM
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Thumbs down

Originally posted by KCFormula
I would use a 6" rod even with spray. (I might even go up to a 6.125" rod) The only time I would use a 5.875" rod is with a blower or turbo. I know its kind of off topic but if you want to know more run a search in the advanced tech section on rod length.
And I would not based on what I've stated in other threads... also based on my experience running nitrous on a competitive level.
A 6.125 rod does not belong in anything but a n/a race motor... preferably a destroked one.

-Mindgame
Old Mar 5, 2003 | 06:04 PM
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Originally posted by KCFormula
I would use a 6" rod even with spray. (I might even go up to a 6.125" rod) The only time I would use a 5.875" rod is with a blower or turbo. I know its kind of off topic but if you want to know more run a search in the advanced tech section on rod length.
question-
a. is there even enough room a 396 to run a 6.125'' rod?
thats pin has to up pretty damn high.

2. are there any decent priced pistons for this application? I didn't see any "off the shelf" pistons when i was looking at rod/piston combo.



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