My 95 Z28 convert has 255000 miles on it and is tired, it uses oil and leaks from every gasket. A friend has a complete LT1 from a 95 Impala SS that was pulled from a wrecked car with very low miles (less than 10000) and has all accesories. I know it has iron heads but is there any problem just swapping this engine into my Z28. I can get this engine for $500. All I really need is the long block but it comes with everything.
Ron

 

I believe you'll need to use the accessory bracket and possibly the accessories from your original motor, but other than that, it should be a direct replacement.

 

Check the knock sensor. A high resistance (100,000 ohms) OBD-II knock sensor will not work with the OBD-I PCM in your 95. You need a knock sensor with a resistance of apprx. 4,000ohms.

The B-Body has a different cam, lower compression and better flowing iron heads, but the iron heads may not support as much timing advance as the aluminum heads on the F-Body engine.

 

Fred, the engine from the Impala SS is a 95 just like my Z28. Will I have to use MY intake manifold? I understand I may lose a little power but after owning the car for 15 years it just doesnt matter to me very much. I just want it be reliable without dripping oil everywhere.
Thanks.

 

I believe the Caprice went to OBD-II before the F-Body, but I could be wrong.

Why would you want to change the intake manifold?

 

get the motor, new gaskets, swap the heads and cam over to the impy motor and bam f-body motor again

 

OBD2 was 96 just like the other LT1 cars. The b-body got the vented opti in 94, maybe that is the "before the f-body" thing you were thinking of.

 

I dont WANT to change the intake manifold, I just didnt know if they are the same or not.

Wow, great info here, but I think I will bolt the engine in as is as much as I can.

 

why not just buy a rebuild kit from summit for like 600$??

 

The summit kits are great if you want pistons heavier than stock with outdated ring packages.

A heavy piston is harder on rods so you are looking at having those rebuilt at minimum.

I would use a junkyard motor BEFORE the summit kits.

 

I would wrap the EGR tube that runs behind the intake with some sort of aluminum heat wrap.That will cut down on the chance of a future oil leak on the back of the manifold from the close proximity of the tube and also check the water transfer pipe that runs between the heads on the back.Not an easy thing to change on the car when it rots.

 

IMO the "EGR caused oil leaks" are grossly exaggerated and if it is a genuine problem proximity to the pipe is not the issue but rather the heating and cooling caused by the exhaust gas being drawn through the intake.

 

I don't know if this is a real issue or not as I had heard both ways, but 4 years ago when I rebuilt my engine, I wrapped the tube with exhaust wrap and have not had any issues with the back of the intake leaking like the previous owner did. Of course it could also be my awesome engine building skills.
I figured it's better to be safe than sorry.

 

I plan to do this just to make sure. I figure it cant hurt either way.

 

In doing so you will only make the exhaust entering the intake HOTTER because you insulated it on it's way to the internal passages of the intake.