Ok I have read the how-to on how to flush the heater core:

http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#heaterflush

There are a total of 5 hoses on the water pump, what two hoses on the water pump do I disconnect to flush the heater core?

When I flush the heater core do I lose all the coolant from the engine block of just the coolant in the hoses and going to the heater core itself?

I think I added a signature if not it is on a 1995 z28 camaro m6.

 

You need to remove the two smaller hoses on the passenger side of the pump.

Either way you'll need to fill up the coolant lost and bleed the system.

 

Thanks for the fast reply.

I had zero heat and did this earlier today and now I have just alittle, like just enough so you wont freeze to death on a cold day. Yes I filled and bleed the system correctly.

I did it until the water became clear and that was only like 10-15 sec in each hose. I am thinking maybe I didn't flush it long enough.

Should I flush it again for a longer period of time (2-3 min) and see if that gives me more heat or is it another problem?

Also my temp guage stays right at 180 if that info is needed.

 

A heater core flush doesn't always seem to remove all of the gunk in the heater core. Deposits that have hardened up over time won't simply wash away. Yours may be gunked up bad enough that it just needs replacing.

 

Update. Flushed it again. Still very very very little heat. Both heater core hoses get hot.

If the heater core wasn't working properly would the heater core hoses get hot?

What are the chances of the HVAC **** not working properly. The hot/cold **** doesn't seem as restrictive as my 1998 camaro hot/cold ****.
Anyway to troubleshoot if the HVAC **** isn't working?

 

Follow the cable from the **** under the dash and see if it is moving when you turn it.

 

will do, thanks.

Going to install a cd player anyways so I can check that while I am in there.

 

Ok, just got back from the mechanic and he said he thinks it is the HVAC control also.

when I got home I did as Shoebox said and the cable isn't moving when I turn the ****.

Is there anyway I could manual turn it to get heat?

If not what can I do to fix it?

 

If you could reach where the cable is attached to the door mechanism, you could manually move it, however you won't be able to regulate the heat. Why not just fix the reason why the cable is not moving?

 

What do you mean door mechanism?
What does the cable do, just open and close some kind of door?
Also where is the door located ?

 

Shoebox has a diagram - **** "J" controls door "6":

http://shbox.com/1/hvac_vacuum.gif

The dotted line represents the cable.

 

I assumed from your previous post that you followed the cable out to find out is was not moving. I guess I also assumed you knew how the heater system worked. Injuneer's post should clear it up a little.

 

Yea sorry about the confusion. The cable was not working properly for some reason. All I knew is there was nothing opening and closing. I looked at that diagram but that really didn't help me any, drawing really doesn't match the actual system.
The car had been sitting for about a year before I purchased it, I would assume that would be the culprit.

I manually opened the door to allow heat. I know this is just a temporary fix, but it beats no heat.

Thanks for your help everyone.

 

Same reaction as Rob/Shoebox - if you didn't know what the cable was operating, how did you know nothing was moving? Did you even look, before you responded?

 

Ok, you found the door and opened it manually-that's good. Now all you need to do is figure out why turning the temp **** does not make it move. That shouldn't be too hard. If it is any consolation, your problem is a rare one.

I don't know why the diagram would not help. It is right out of the factory manual. The aerial view depicts the air flow, all the actuators and mix doors in the system.

I have updated the diagram resulting in a change to the file extension.
http://shbox.com/1/hvac_vacuum.jpg