I disassembled the motor i recently purchased, and its got 4 spun rods and one spun main bering. I knew it was bad off, so the plan was to rebuild it. Now i called several local machine shops and the prices are from 1000-1200 ruffly and one that wanted to do a stroker kit for 1800. The prices are for all block work and assembly of bottom end. I know it boils down to what my goals are. I wanted a daily driver around 300-315hp that i was going to take to the track and spay 125-150wet shot at the track. How strong would a crank and rods be if they are turned .10 or .20? I planned on a bigger cam but stock heads, and a few bolt ons.

What sould i do? Find a used stock crank? Shell out for a aftermarket bottom end?

Another option would be fiind a used engine with 70k-100k for around 800 on the average, but i'm not sure about the miles and a used engine's health.

This is my first LT1, I'm working with about 1500, to get it running then bolt ons (including NOS) later. i could use a little assistance.

 

A crank that is turned -.010, -.020, or even -.030 is not a back-breaker as long as the core is sound. A crank that had that much carnage going on around it may have been exposed to some extreme temperatures as could have the main caps and/or saddles. Take the time to inspect these parts yourself after they have been cleaned. If there is any sign of bluing of the metal on the block or crank, don't bother with the affected parts. Cranks aren't expensive enough to justify compromising a new motor with a damaged piece. You're looking at new rods, pistons, and (if it isn't damaged) you could possibly use the block, crank, heads and bolt-on externals. Once you've assessed the condition of the parts you'll be in a better position to evaluate the next step.

Good luck.

c

 

You can make 315hp easily with a 350, if you are on a tight budget, no reason to go stroker.