Ok, I pulled the engine harness out of my 95 and went through it very throughly*sp*? and found quite a few frayed wires and connections. I also fixed the EWP switch and wired that a bit neatly.

So after that and replacing the PCV valve and hose these are my new test results:

My Car: HC: 1.76 Limit: .80
My Car: CO PASS
My Car: NOX: 4.19 Limit: 2.00

Throwing no codes, only thing is the ABS light comes on but thats it, and it only does it at the testing place for some reason. SO what should be my next step??????

Thanks in advance!

-Mark

 

Do you have all your emission eqipment on it?

 

High HC could be you're running lean or getting some detonation. High NOx is likely your EGR system.

 

No, EGR is gone.

and I dont know if im running lean or detonating...

But im barely failing

Any sugestions as to what to check???

 

Ok a little update.

Exhaust is as follows Pace Setter headers, Cat, and exit before rear tire. I have a cat per bank. The exhaust exits one pipe on each rear tire. Oh and NO EGR

Also I extended the 02's myself from the PCM side and Im using brand new Denso 02's

I lost 2 of the 4 TB bolts so I dont knw if thats causing a leak or not but theres the info. Just trying to help get some info so I can get tags.

Thanks

-Mark

 

I dont know if that would affect emissions much but I would still replace them. If its not sealed well you could get a little unfiltered dirty air in there.

 

Im planning on it. Also is there any vacuum hoses back by the gas filler tube???

 

Your EVAP canister is back there. Why, did you disconnect something? If you did, that might cause you to run rich.

 

No, I didnt disconnect anything, But I hear air coming from somewhere I just cant find it Sounds like is above the tank ish? Idk hard to explain. If you were to open the fill door and listen you can hear it but its louder when your underneath it

 

There is a purge valve back there, that could be what you are hearing. If you have any doubts, you can just remove the rear part of the plastic wheel well and have a look.

 

Ok, Ill do that as soon as I can. Also does trickflow sell just the grommets for their elbows?? I lost the little one for the opti vent

 

I've turned off my car once and heard pressure hissing out of a leaking gas cap.. $8 and a gas cap later I noticed huge improvements all around. Does the little rubber seal on the cap seem flattened or worn out?

If not then it sounds like you might have a cracked/leaking Evap. line maybe..

 

Ok. I went to AAMCO because they are the only ones that will scan a 95' for free. They said I had the following codes:
#23 (IAT, temp too low) I bought a brand new one yesterday (delphi form NAPA).

#48 (MAF sensor circuit) I think my K&N coulda caused that code, it was dirty. ( so I cleaned that and the MAF) Still has SES light... What should be my next step??

#18 (Injector Circuit) How do I even begin to troubleshoot that?



Also, the SES light only comes on at IDLE... is AAMCO confusing the IAT with the IAC???? I repaired the IAC wiring, and I had the IAC sensor out and IIRC I had to shove it back in..

I just want the SES to go AWAY!!!

Oh ya, Thanks Injuneer for saying it was just a ground problem I fixed the grounds and bam. EEPROM Code gone!!!

-Mark

 

I've had the MAF code before. It came on when I unplugged it and plugged it back in with the battery still connected. Disconnect the battery to reset the PCM and see if they come back. To test the MAF, gently tap it with the handle of a screwdriver with the engine running. If it stumbles at all, the MAF is bad.

 

I tested the maf that way last night. and NO stumble. So MAF is good

Isnt disconnecting the battery the same as pulling the PCM BAT fuse in the gauge fuse box?