first time posting. Hoping for response to help out... First start up of the day is somewhat hard. It turns over and sounds awesome, but dies quickly... seems that the oil pressure (gauge) works its way up with each
try. By watching the gauge I can see when she will stay running. No oil pressure problems, I've done some reading and an article from Camaro hi performance has me thinking this is my fuel relay "sticking". If anyone has had this problem let me know and how in the heck does a relay "stick".
Like I said, she's a high mileage, mostly stock LT1. Also wondering if I should change harmonic balancer to one that has the key-hole notch. I've heard the stock one does not have the key-hole and is dumb to have in the first place. Just a girl who is trying to keep one of the two camaros strong till a full rebuild. Thanks for all the help and I hope we always have this page to turn to.:

 

I'd say it's something fuel related. Does the fuel pressure bleed off quickly once the car is shut off? It should hold pressure around 40 or so psi for at least an hour or more (42-47 psi at idle, 50-52 or so WOT). Quick bleed off can be fuel pressure regulator, or most likely the check valve in the fuel pump (im pretty sure its the check valve im thinking of). Leaky injectors can also do that, but I wouldn't think it would cause the car to die.

 

Your description is hard for me to understand,sorry.If it cranks for a while before starting it is most likely the check valve in the fuel pump.Replacing the pump is the cure...Is that what you were saying?Dont bother with the damper,unless you are supercharging it.Also welcome to the board!

 

No, sorry for the bad description. The car doesn't require heavy cranking it actually starts right up everytime. It just dies a few times before it stays running. I dont have to give it gas or nothing it does seem to idle high sometimes though. P.S.- Does anyone have 86 or 93 interior parts they would want to sell?

 

See the parts section of this site for both "for Sale" and "wanted".

 

AwesomeThanks "Bubba"

 

Sticky idle air control (IAC) motor/valve??

 

it could be the dreaded opti. it sounds like what mine was doing, my water pump was leaking and would drip on the opti. causeing it to start hard or start great and then just die. the opti's are known to go out on higher mileage engines

 

What you describe sounds like a defective coolant temp. sensor (the one in the water pump that the computer sees). It isn't making the mixture rich enough to keep the engine running. The cooler it gets, the worse it will be.

 

That PSI is way off. It should be 36-37 at idle and 42-43.5 at WOT. If your pressure is that high Shibby you are leaving power on the table due to your car being to rich.

This sounds more like a Vacuum leak to me. As long as the car runs fine when warmed up and is not missing.

This would be the first thing I checked. Very good input ricehammer. My other though on this is to check the wireing to the IAC then resetting it.


I would not start to suspect an opti issue until you checked the fuel pressure , looked for a vaccuum leak, and made sure the plugs and wires were in good shape.

 

My car does not run rich, I scan it regularly and check the sensors for such things.

Check out these if you still think otherwise.
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?t=537695
http://www.theformulasource.com/foru...howtopic=14803
https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/sho...+fuel+pressure
https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/sho...+fuel+pressure

As for a vacuum leak, it seems unlikely. A high idle typically comes with vacuum leaks, and if it's dying shortly after starting then it seems to be the opposite.

 

Exactly. See were it says with the vaccuum line off. That is simulating WOT so it would be 41-47 at WOT. Running stock injectors you are going to want to be on the low side of that range.

Also you posted that you are running scans to verify that you are not running rich. Ok so your pcm is pulling fuel to compinsate during regular driving. What about when you step out into PE. You maybe, like I said, Leaving some power on the table from being rich at WOT.

Lastly. You are right a vacuum leak causes high idle on a warmed up car. If you read post #4 it says it idles high sometimes. Now on a car that is not warmed up in closed loop when the pcm cant compensate for the rich condition the idle will sugre or the car will die. if you don't believe me go pull the brake booster on your car when its cold and see if it stays running.