I'm doing a 383 stroker build with a forged crank, rods, and pistons. It's going to be a higher compression [12.0+] naturally aspirated motor that I would like to spray on eventually. I'm talking ported Trickflows or Darts with a bigger HR or solid roller and ported intake manifold. The motor is backed with a 4L80 and Ford 9". I will not be revving over 7k and only spraying on the motor a few times a season if that.

The big question is...would I be ok with a studed 2 bolt or do I need to go with 4 bolt mains? I'm hoping for low 11's NA and 10's on a 150 shot.

Just looking for some educated real life opinions.

-Dustin-

 

Dustin, for that kinda setup you should be looking for 10's on motor and 9's on the hit.

Why wouldn't you rev a solid roller over 7K?

 

I would definitely go 4-bolt. While you got the engine apart, why not? Especially if you plan on spraying. Why invest all that money into the rotating assembly and risk the block so you can save some bucks?

 

Well I would like to retain the stock PCM and from my undersanding it and the opti dont like to cooperate over 7k. I also dont want to get into shaft rockers and stuff like that, I'm trying to balance everything on a fine line. My overall goal is to have a very mean street car that can hold it's own at the track and not just put down dyno numbers. I'll probably run a GM847 for the first season and then make valvetrain/cam changes in the winter. It's kind of an evolution as budget allows. But I need to get the bottom end part of the equation figured out first.

-Dustin-

 

The thing that may tip the scales to a 4 bolt conversion, (at least in my thinking), ....... is that 150 shot of spray you're planning on running "down the road".

Usually it's high RPM that necessitates 4 bolt (and splayed?) mains, and 7,000 RPM is nothing to worry about on a well built 2 bolt main engine. If you would/could limit your N2O useage to say a 50/75 maximum shot, I still think you might be okay?

 

If you get those heads its going to be alot faster than you think.

I would just run it on motor, with a 383 and those heads....you should be able to run 10's NA easy. When we talked......stock bottom end cars with ported stocks heads and hyd cams were going hi 10's and drove over an hour to the track. Thats impressive

 

Good ideas.

I'm thinking about going 2 bolt, Scat 9000 3.750, Forged Pistons, and Scat Forged Rods for this season and run all N/A. Aim for 11's. Then next season go 4 bolt, forged crank, solid roller, for 10's and start spraying. I'm keeping my goals reasonable, but the biggest one is the competition between friends, I have some hard cars to keep up with.

My budget is hurting with money being put into the Cummins also. Just got a DTT Converter, DTT High-Perf Valve Body, and other small parts.

-Dustin-

 

If you "need" a 4L80E and a 9", you "need" 4-bolt caps. Sounds like overkill, not a fine line to me??

Rich

 

if you are going to spend the money on nice forged internal parts, then you should spend some on the four-bolt caps as well. If it was all cast or hypereutectic I would say not too worry about it, or at least get the 4 bolt mains when you put in your forged crank

 

Exactly. That's the reason I'll probably end up going all out instead of half-***. I just have conversations with people who make me think twice, but I usually end up going with the best solution for the long run.

-Dustin-

 

Your plans and builds are conflicting...if you have a 4l80 and 9" w/ a 383 why only shoot for 11's NA????

With a matched HR cam you should see 10s on motor w/ that setup.

 

Real Life is:

If you have the money to do all that, you have $300.00 for doing the four bolt conversion.

 

$300? What?

I must have missed school that day

 

I'm going 4 bolt splayed. Do it right and do it once.

-Dustin-

 

IMO if you're going to spray then you should go w/ a splayed setup since a nitrous hit puts a lot of pressure on the crank.
Exactly. Tag on at or around $400 more to that price.