any suggestions? ive been to lowes home depot and all they had were 7/16x14 is there anything else i can use to get this thing back on?

 

try an actual hardware store. found 7/16-20 at ace. you can use a hammer if in a pinch but would not recommend it.

 

Glad to see that you were able to get it off, did using the jaws on the bolts work? As far as getting it back on that's a tough one if you can't find the threaded rod/longer bolt. I went to ACE to get mine. The only other way to get it on that I know of would be to cook your hub in the oven to get it nice and hot and then with channel locks put it on the crank and with a hammer TAP it on, then with a socket, think maybe 5/8 you can TAP it on until the stock bolt can be threaded in and used to pull it on. Torque it to 75lbs I believe.

Edit: Only TAP it on there to get it started until the bolt can be used. The only time I use a sledge on it is with a brand new motor just because "I think" it helps seat the thrust bearing by hitting the front and back of the crank. Personally I've never had a problem doing it that way. I wouldn't do it on "used" motor.

 

Getting the hub off is half the problem. You'll need to get it back on and those bolts at Ace aren't threaded up the shank of the screw (hex head cap screw).

I ordered a 3' Grade B7 High Carbon threaded rod where I'll use some jam nuts to thread the hub back on.

Universal hub installers don't go deep enough.

Be careful about using only a partial amount of the crank thread bolts if you are going to try to use the bolts. They won't seat fully in the crank and you may risk stripping the threads in the crank.

 

In made an install tool using #5, 7/16" x 20 TPI threaded-stock. Don't use the cranks bolt, you'll mess-up the crank snout threads. And, don't use a hammer, you'll damage the crank end-play.

WD

 

Agree 100% with your post, but I don't understand this one part. What do you mean seat fully in the crank? I understand the stripping and that's why I heat the crap out of the hub to it slides on easier and doesn't put as much stress on the threads.

 

Agreed. Here's a cheap and very effective install tool:

http://members.***.net/gmarengo/Misc/Misc.htm

 

If you go with that method make sure you buy some high quality rod or it will snap off in the crank snout...

 

I have to cringe when people talk about pulling the hub on with the bolt and using a sledge on the crank to set the thrust bearing?

If you want to turn a somewhat easy job into a nightmare, strip out the crank bolt hole. It will certainly ruin your week.

 

This is exactly what I did.

Go to the local bolt supply house (not Lowes or Home Depot) and get grade 8 threaded rod so it won't break off in the end of the crank. I have several local places I can find it - you might have to go to somewhere like Fastenal. Also, get a couple of extra nuts to spin together and have something to hold when tightening

 

I've always had excellent luck at napa getting fine threaded bolts.

Last time I went they have both 7/16-20 and 1/2-20 at the store

 

Looks like your only option for not being able to find a threaded rod is to find a threaded rod Seriously though as everyone has said, that is the correct way to push the hub on without risking damage to anything. Good luck finding one.

 

As stated in previous posts, please make sure that it is a Grade 8 or B7 High Carbon Steel threaded rod.

I used the link in SS RRR's thread and there was a reference to www.nutty.com. It was a decent price and I ordered it this past Friday. It comes in 3' lengths to you'll need to cut it down as shown in the link.

Ace Hardware has some Grade 8 nuts and washers that will help. I should get this on Monday then I'll also put on the Crankshaft timing gear too instead of hammering it on. The manual says it's ok to hammer but I'd feel safer on the thrust bearing using a threaded device.

Anyways, make sure it is a strong grade.

 

I just lightly tap the hub on to get it started on the crank. Then I remove the washer from the bolt then I use the bolt to pull it on. I make sure I have plenty of threads in the crank then I use my torque wrench to pull it on. This way I don't use to much umph and strip anything. It always works for me. If you tap the hub with a hammer tap the ears and not the front. If not you can mushroom the hub and then the pulley wont fit on it anymore. I saw my buddy do that.

 

thanks guys for all the advise really... i dont know what id do without this site... ill let you guys know how it goes