When you did the test install to determine the best position of them, did you tack weld them with them "test" installed on the head still or can you just mark them to weld up out of the motor?

There seems to be too many sparks to tack up still on the head putting too many metal particals flying around to potentially get in the motor/oil or even more into the valve springs/seals.
Or is there another recommended way to do this accurately?

 

We used machinist's dye and an awl to mark the alignment with the plates positioned on the head. The welding should be done off the head. It is a VERY good idea to bolt the two segments down to a jig when they're properly aligned and before welding in order to make sure that they don't warp or move during the process. If they move or warp during the welding process, they're essentially junk.

 

I just tightened the fockers down well with non permanent loctite on the stud threads. Havent moved in about a year.

-Dustin-

 

I have never welded them either, I just tq the studs to 50#

 

Yea mine required 0% Grinding or Welding. Just was a major pain in the *** to line them up correct so that both rockers are centered over the valve.

 

I have never used them on a LT1 but when I put them on my old 81 Z (Canfield 220's) I had to grind the **** out of them. But, i never welded them together. As far as I know they are still on the engine with no problems. (I sold the car about 3 years ago, but I still see it around from time to time.)

 

I would think that without welding them it would be almost impossible to tighten the stud without them moving/twisting since there is nothing to keep it from twisting, but I guess some of you are getting them on that way.

 

2QUIK6 - It is a major pain in the ***. You gotta tighten the studs down spinning them on by hand. Then go back and forth back and forth just taking them each a hair tigher until you have them down tight enough to hold it. Then back one stud out put lock tite on it. Put it back in, take the other out, lock tite it, and put it back in. Then be careful as hell as you torque them down that they dont shift. You have to keep hopping back and forth from stud to stud to keep it from moving them.

 

You want to use thread sealant, not locktite on the studs.

 

lol thats what I meant. Sorry about that one. I did use sealant. It's been a while.

 

Use a TIG welder - no sparks.

Visegrip pliers work well too.