I tried searching, but couldn't find any help. How much on average to have this done. 1/2 filling a block, short fill, etc. Thanks.

 

If you are refering to the process of partially filling the water jackets in a cylinder block with a cement based material to give the block added sttrength, the machine shop doing the engine work should not charge much more than the cost of the material since there is not much involved from a labor aspect. I've always just purchased the material and did it myself as there is really not much to it. Note: Should be done before machining the block.

http://www.hardblok.com/info.html

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...2&autoview=sku

 

Its a waste of time, and not needed.
Joe Overton ran 9.30's NA with a stick LT1 block with no filler in it

 

Would this be the case when running a two stage with between 200-250 additional rwhp? I'd like to keep things stable with the spike the motor sees with the first hit of nitrous. Thanks.

 

Depends on who you ask.

Even if you do fill the block its still astock block and thats alot of stress.....

I would not bother with it.....but I'm a gamblin man


if you do want to do it be sure to do it before you hone it with tq plates b/c the bore will change and side clearance may get tight

 

I figure the the short fill can't hurt, and I'll keep the overbore to .020 to help the nitrous spike too.

Boosted_Z28, thanks for the help too. Maybe I'll see ya around one of these days, what does your car look like?

 

Joe Overton's 9.30 ET is highly respectable to say the least, but has very little to do with "filling a block".

In most NA motor applications, filling a block may very well not be needed, although it certainly will add additional strength to the main cap webs and reduce main cap shifting or movement ( even more so in 2 bolt main cap applications).
A little research will tell you that nitrous or forced induction motors using factory cylinder blocks (especially if bored) that see excessive cylinder pressures, will benefit if the block is filled (completely in race-only applications or partially if driven any distance). But, like most things, there can also be some drawbacks.

The practice of filling cylinder blocks has been going on for some time and is still used today, in certain applications (and to be fair, it will also depend on the engine builder). To simply say it is a waste of time and not needed is just not true. In fact, in Z-RATED94's application, there may be some good insurance to be gained by partially filling his block, especially if he builds a 355 and wants to spray it with copious amounts of nitrous.

 

Boosted, thanks again. And never mind on what your car looks like. I checked out your page. Looks like my cars twin. Gotta love a black Z.

 

I've been following your nitrous adventures for a little while now, especially since you live only a couple of miles from me and I have got to say that your 11.08 ET is impressive to say the least, considering what you have listed for mods.

I have a black '96 Z-28. Unfortunately, it hasn't seen a lot of street time lately. I just finished the new motor and will have it in the car by Spring. Brand new combination, so I'm sure I'll have some sorting out to do. Looking forward to running into you some time either on the street or at the track.

 

Even more of a reason to get together someday soon. Yea, the website is old and really needs a major update/overhaul. Another thing to add to my list of things to do...ha

 

Rick,

"If its' not broken don't fix it". You have a strong runner, that and you are still working out the bugs on the stock 30K short block. You're talking crazy. That car is pristine, and runs hard. Blow it up then worry about the fill

 

Not this motor James, I want to slowly start putting together another one that can take a 200-250 shot on a two stage. I found a shortblock in the forsale section. Hopefully things work out and I can pick it up next weekend.
Thanks for the compliments on the car.

 

Ok, got ya! Good luck with the build. Any other specs or ideas for the build, that is besides a healthy dose of N2O?

 

I want to push the limits of the stock crank. So I'll try the short fill, studded mains, better rods, .020 instead of .030 nitrous pistons, to help retain some cylinder wall thickness. Maybe a "slightly" bigger cam advanced a few degrees to help the nitrous and keep the rpm down. Aftermarket dampener, flexplate, oil pump, etc. and all the nessecary machine work. The goal is to keep the rpm under 6400 and have a total of 600rwhp with the 2 stage.

 

Nice goal...seems reasonable. Quality parts selection would be the key I believe. Good luck with the project.