LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Waterpump is done, car getting hot real quick still

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Aug 3, 2007 | 09:14 PM
  #1  
micfly83's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 343
From: Orlando, FL
Waterpump is done, car getting hot real quick still

So we put in the water pump and we figured out all our mistakes from earlier

We started the car and everything seemed fine but it started getting hot again

There was no grinding noise like previously posted from another post I made so everything seemed fine...and nothing leaking

We think the coolant isn't flowing though

We put in the amount that we think we drained from the radiator and spilling from working on it

but we opened the bleeder screw and nothing happened

The radiator also looked unused

We filled the system at the Resivoir tank instead of through the radiator which could be the problem

lemme know what yall think or what I should check

Thanks
Old Aug 3, 2007 | 09:30 PM
  #2  
'94 Bad A Z28's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 2,905
From: Orlando,Fl
You have to bleed the system with both bleeder valves at the same time. Also are you sure your fans are coming on? I don't know how filling the system at the resivoir affected this but you should fill from the radiator.
Old Aug 3, 2007 | 09:36 PM
  #3  
micfly83's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 343
From: Orlando, FL
If I take the radiator cap off, should there be coolant flowing through there with the engine on
Old Aug 3, 2007 | 09:46 PM
  #4  
Dave89IROC's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 4,676
From: Melvindale, MI, US
did you install the W/P drive coupler?
Old Aug 3, 2007 | 09:48 PM
  #5  
micfly83's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 343
From: Orlando, FL
Yes.
Old Aug 3, 2007 | 09:48 PM
  #6  
Stl94LT1's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,083
From: O'Fallon, MO
Originally Posted by Dave89IROC
did you install the W/P drive coupler?
Doesn't sound like it.
Old Aug 3, 2007 | 09:50 PM
  #7  
Dave89IROC's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 4,676
From: Melvindale, MI, US
Originally Posted by Stl94LT1
Doesn't sound like it.
well, if he is sure they did, he needs to fill it at the radiator with the bleeders open
Old Aug 3, 2007 | 09:53 PM
  #8  
micfly83's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 343
From: Orlando, FL
I'm worried about overfilling the system

will that be a problem?
Old Aug 3, 2007 | 10:21 PM
  #9  
Bersaglieri's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 5,907
From: The Wild West
All it will do it come out the overfill tank. It takes a while to bleed the system sometimes. Put coolant in the radiator, overfill, and bleed. Eventually all the air will get out. If not you have other issues.

-Dustin-
Old Aug 3, 2007 | 10:36 PM
  #10  
SS RRR's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 1998
Posts: 3,144
From: Jackstandican
Originally Posted by micfly83
We filled the system at the Resivoir tank instead of through the radiator which could be the problem
Ah geez, Margie...
Fill the system by way of radiator cap. The reservoir is NOT designed to distribute coolant into the system with gravity.
Best way to bleed system is (read through all steps before starting):

Open both bleeder screws
Poor coolant into radiator
You will eventually hear a hiss
keep filling to brim of radiator and let it settle down until you can't fill it anymore
it's possible the lower bleeder (on t-housing) will start to trickle fluid.
Close bleeder screws
start engine
have someone watch temp gauge while someone else watches coolant level through radiator
fill radiator as the level falls
when you can't fill anymore, close radiator
let system pressurize while still watching temp gauge carefully
Open t-stat bleeder screw
if it leaks coolant you are good to go. close bleeder screw
if air comes out let the system pressurize again and repeat.
do the same for the top screw.
Don't fill radiator COMPLETELY to the top. You want to allow it some room to expand when the coolant starts to get hot.
Once you see a steady stream of coolant start pissing into the radiator from the steam pipe you know the engine is good for coolant.
Old Aug 4, 2007 | 01:08 AM
  #11  
micfly83's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 343
From: Orlando, FL
Well my internet just went out in the time we were doing this

The haynes manual pretty much told us jack **** for bleeding the system

What we did is just fill up the radiator at intervals since we were unsure of how much we took out since it went everywhere

Poured about half a gallon in started it up and then checked everything

Then poured another half in and checked it again

Eventually no more would go in the radiator, but the resoviour was now empty

We poured in more coolant in the radiator and the resovoir came back to life

We then topped it off in the resovoir and now its running fine

I assume theres probably air in the system by doing it this way

The temperature is doing real good, so what I plan to do is just bleed it when I have time back home and have the supervision of my dad.

Thanks for everyones help though
Old Aug 4, 2007 | 01:56 AM
  #12  
SS RRR's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 1998
Posts: 3,144
From: Jackstandican
You should be fine. Check the radiator for the next few days. Just FYI the entire cooling system holds approx 16 quarts. If you didn't drain the block and only drained the radiator and part of the block by taking the w/p off that adds up to about 2 gallons give or take. Good idea to keep track just how much you put in.
Old Aug 4, 2007 | 08:23 AM
  #13  
micfly83's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 343
From: Orlando, FL
So far we put in 1.5 gallons, and its pretty high on the dipstick.

There could still be a 1/2 gallon of air in there

My friend was trying to bleed it with just the one obvious screw while I watched the temperature and that wasn't working...apparently there are two to do in order to bleed it. Nothing was coming out of the screw he was doing...it would sometimes spurt out coolant, but most of the time it wasn't.

But i'm sure I'll figure it out when I get back home
Old Aug 4, 2007 | 10:32 AM
  #14  
SS RRR's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 1998
Posts: 3,144
From: Jackstandican
Originally Posted by micfly83
So far we put in 1.5 gallons, and its pretty high on the dipstick.

There could still be a 1/2 gallon of air in there

My friend was trying to bleed it with just the one obvious screw while I watched the temperature and that wasn't working...apparently there are two to do in order to bleed it. Nothing was coming out of the screw he was doing...it would sometimes spurt out coolant, but most of the time it wasn't.

But i'm sure I'll figure it out when I get back home
Did you let the system pressurize before opening the bleeder screws?
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
1996LT1Z28
Show and Shine / Paint and Body Care
2
Dec 4, 2014 09:20 PM
pologreen97z
LT1 Based Engine Tech
0
Dec 2, 2014 10:42 AM
USAirman93
General 1967-2002 F-Body Tech
4
Nov 24, 2014 03:37 PM
chevroletfreak
LT1 Based Engine Tech
202
Jul 4, 2005 05:00 PM
Absolute Z28
Car Audio and Electronics
13
Jul 19, 2002 02:21 PM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:25 PM.