I'm looking for someone who works on high performance LT1s in Northeastern Ohio (Akron, Canton, Cleveland, Youngstown, etc.)

I give up and I want it fixed.

 

search for a local fbody club?
Their are also reginal sections here too

 

That's a great idea. I never thought of it.

Thanks.

 

Any details? If it needs machine work I know of an excellent machine shop in the Mayfield area.

 

I found the cause of the really bad miss. The power wire to the coil was 90% broken at the black connector.

I now have a second issue where #2 & #4 are running lean. I've swapped the injectors side to side and it stays with #2 & #4. It is either a bad injector harness or the PCM is not sending the correct inputs to those injectors.

Heads, intake and headers were recently removed to change head gasket and I don't have any vaccum accessories hooked up due to deletion of CCP, EGR, A/C and the rockers were re-adjusted when the heads went back on.
The valves and springs are ok, and the heads, intake and block are straight. So I can't think of any other reason for those two to be lean except for the wiring or the PCM.

I started it up and it seems to run much better. I will drive it today to see how much it has actually improved.

 

This may be a stupid question, but have those ports where those vacuum acc. been plugged?

 

You need a good mechanic, not a high performance shop.

Rich

 

As it turns out, the MAJOR problem was the pilot bushing or an unbalanced flywheel. The bushing spun inside the crank and mangled the crap out of the bearings and egg-shaped it. It must have spun previously when the other guy owned it because I changed it when I re-built the short block I bought. It vibrated so bad I thought it had to be a miss. (some of it was).

Luckily it caused me to recheck everything. My plug wires were arcing in the heat shield tubing I put them in (#5 and #7). It looked like an electric crystal ball with arcs the whole length of the tubing. Two plugs were gapped at only 0.030". One plug boot was never clicked on. One plug had a cracked insulator and was arcing against the block and the second coil plug connector had the wire broken inside the insulation just outside the connector.

I also had suspected that the clutch or flywheel was causing problems because it would lurch with the clutch pedal in if I revved to 4500 or so. So I borrowed my friends TH-350 and TC. Luckily he spun a bearing (did I say luckily?) so he was willing to give me his trans for a while. I then bought a neutrally balanced flexplate. That's when I found the pilot bushing. I was able to pull it out with just my fingers instead of a slide hammer.

As soon as I put the flexplate on, I fired it up and it ran great. I think the flywheel I bought for the Spec 3+ clutch may be for an externally balanced crank. It ran fine on my previous stock unbalanced rotating assembly.

Any how, after some MSD problems I discovered at the track last Wednesday night, it revs to 7000 grand without a hint of vibration.

So you're right, all it needed was a mechanic. I'll have to get me one of those next time, it will add years to my life.