Snapped crank bolt!!!
I had the same thing happen to me on a friends SRT4 that locked up. The dealer had it and tryed like hell to get it turned over and stretched the bolt. I rebuilt the engine for him and put in a brand new crank, but reused the crank bolt....... when to tighten it and it snapped.
I pulled the motor, flipped the thing over and pulled out the crank (Left the pistons and rods in the bores). I had a local machine shop drill it out and clean up the threads on it. Took about 80 bucks in labor, but on a 400 dollar crank it was worth it. Had it back in and running the next morning.
I pulled the motor, flipped the thing over and pulled out the crank (Left the pistons and rods in the bores). I had a local machine shop drill it out and clean up the threads on it. Took about 80 bucks in labor, but on a 400 dollar crank it was worth it. Had it back in and running the next morning.
I decided to take on this challege myself since I didn't want to haul my $10K motor back to the machine shop and have them tear it apart to remove the broken bolt.
I went to Sears and purchased a hand impact tool that removes frozen or stuck bolts by striking it with a hammer.
I used a dremel and cut a slot in the protruding bolt.

I slipped on the flat head fitting and slammed on the hammer with no results. The bit just chipped the inside of the slot. =(
So its time to break out the big guns....So I bought a 7/32 and a 1/8 inch Colbalt series drill bit from Sears. The regular black oxide or titanium drill bits won't do **** to the bolt so its important to use the Colbalt series.
I 1st drilled a 7/32 hole and tried my best to center it on the bolt.

Then I used the 1/8 drill bit.

The Colbalt drill bits went through the metal like a hot knife through butter! =)
I hammered the bolt extractor in and with a pair of vice grips twisted the bolt out.

This is the result:


So inconclusion I would like to give a big THUMBS DOWN!
to Autozone's sh!TTY hub installer.
-B
I went to Sears and purchased a hand impact tool that removes frozen or stuck bolts by striking it with a hammer.
I used a dremel and cut a slot in the protruding bolt.

I slipped on the flat head fitting and slammed on the hammer with no results. The bit just chipped the inside of the slot. =(
So its time to break out the big guns....So I bought a 7/32 and a 1/8 inch Colbalt series drill bit from Sears. The regular black oxide or titanium drill bits won't do **** to the bolt so its important to use the Colbalt series.
I 1st drilled a 7/32 hole and tried my best to center it on the bolt.

Then I used the 1/8 drill bit.

The Colbalt drill bits went through the metal like a hot knife through butter! =)
I hammered the bolt extractor in and with a pair of vice grips twisted the bolt out.

This is the result:


So inconclusion I would like to give a big THUMBS DOWN!
to Autozone's sh!TTY hub installer.-B
Last edited by blown383; Apr 11, 2007 at 08:36 PM.
Don't use autozone's installer. It's a POS. I made my own with some all thread, washers and a bolt. I used a flat piece of metal with a hole for the all thread to dristribute the load. I also had a piece of pipe and a longer all thread for the crank gear so that I wouldn't be so close to the block. It works great.
Don't forget to use some type of grease on the threads to prevent galling. Anti-sieze works great.
Don't forget to use some type of grease on the threads to prevent galling. Anti-sieze works great.
Problem is that I have a big block hub with dual keys... and it looks like the tolerances on the hub and the crank snout is around .001! I may have to get my hub honed once I mic it.
-B
-B
yeah, it works great, i'm not sure how much the hub expanded but i suppose a person could calculate it pretty easy, anyway it just sliped right on, wear a welding glove when ya put it on and you shouldn't have any problems, a torch may work, just take i easy on the heat.





