still not able to track down my problem...
still not able to track down my problem...
have a full scan with cold idle to warm........part throttle and wot then back to idle with code 64 popping in at the end......need help/suggestions on this have looked around for a vacuum leak but have not been able to track anything down........
Rob
Rob
um dont really know.......during the scan I turned it off soon after the code appears....when it was throwing the code before (with no scanning software running) the code would clear soon after throttle is applied. I can try to run it after code while scanning if you would like that info. Thanks.
Rob
Rob
Was the engine running fine before the light suddenly came on, or did it pop up right after you changed something in your setup? Have you ever scanned the BLM's BEFORE the light came on? Were they approaching 160 then?
please see threads
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?t=510654
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?t=512316
again thanks for any and all help in advance
Rob
Either there is a mechanical reason you are lean or simply a control problem. We would expect the engine to run crappy either all the time or until the code is set.
First, at no time have you said the engine is running crappy. In fact the only thing (problem) mentioned thus far is a DTC64 showing up. So the first question is WHAT IS THE SYMPTOM OF THE PROBLEM?
We have yet to get an answer about how it runs after the code is set.
Fred asked if you had any problem up to the day the code was set. Well? Or are we back to. do you have any problem other than an SES?
But then comes the other part of his question. What are the long term fuel trims doing? To which you replied, they are hitting 160. So does it get progressively worse in the way it runs or do you actually have a running problem?
To deal with the 64, it must be proven the wiring to the O2 is ok. After warm up, disconnect the O2 and short the tan wire to ground. The O2 voltage should read between 350 and 550 mv. If it does NOT, then the purple wire is shorted to ground or the PCM is defective.
If the voltage is between 350 and 550 mv, then you have some other things to look for. Infact, there are quite a few things to look at.
Some other possible causes for a lean code are:
Low system voltage.
Damaged O2 and or it's wiring. Not limited to contamination / breaks of the wiring or connectors of the O2.
A lean injector.
Fuel contamination.
Fuel pressure.
Exhaust leaks.
An air pump running when it should not. (Very easily checked).
Defective O2.
First, at no time have you said the engine is running crappy. In fact the only thing (problem) mentioned thus far is a DTC64 showing up. So the first question is WHAT IS THE SYMPTOM OF THE PROBLEM?
We have yet to get an answer about how it runs after the code is set.
Fred asked if you had any problem up to the day the code was set. Well? Or are we back to. do you have any problem other than an SES?
But then comes the other part of his question. What are the long term fuel trims doing? To which you replied, they are hitting 160. So does it get progressively worse in the way it runs or do you actually have a running problem?
To deal with the 64, it must be proven the wiring to the O2 is ok. After warm up, disconnect the O2 and short the tan wire to ground. The O2 voltage should read between 350 and 550 mv. If it does NOT, then the purple wire is shorted to ground or the PCM is defective.
If the voltage is between 350 and 550 mv, then you have some other things to look for. Infact, there are quite a few things to look at.
Some other possible causes for a lean code are:
Low system voltage.
Damaged O2 and or it's wiring. Not limited to contamination / breaks of the wiring or connectors of the O2.
A lean injector.
Fuel contamination.
Fuel pressure.
Exhaust leaks.
An air pump running when it should not. (Very easily checked).
Defective O2.
ok sorry not to answer some of the questions but its hard to answer something if you dont know what your looking at really...
Fred and you have been invaluable to this point and I do appreciate the help.
so a few things that I know of that are going on...........
At idle until the code shows up you really wouldnt know there is a problem if you didnt have any scanning software running showing the fuel trims, etc
Once the car is in closed loop and you start driving it does act a little crappy if you are off the throttle for a few seconds and then back on almost like it bogs down a bit then clears back up once you get on the throttle.....have noticed that this happens when the fuel trims are around or approaching 150+ then throttle is applied and trims go back down to in or around 128.
you mentioned code 64 but also code 42 appeared once during a trip down the track and has yet to reappear.............fyi (in my first initial post on this problem)
will run it around today in open loop with no code and then after the code to see how it responds
of your possible problem causes we can take AIR off the list as it is deleted.
on the 02s a few points/questions.........both banks go to 160 but i only get the code for the right 02.... at idle the left o2 is running between mid 200 and 400 and right is at 62 to mid 200......
Fred and you have been invaluable to this point and I do appreciate the help.
so a few things that I know of that are going on...........
At idle until the code shows up you really wouldnt know there is a problem if you didnt have any scanning software running showing the fuel trims, etc
Once the car is in closed loop and you start driving it does act a little crappy if you are off the throttle for a few seconds and then back on almost like it bogs down a bit then clears back up once you get on the throttle.....have noticed that this happens when the fuel trims are around or approaching 150+ then throttle is applied and trims go back down to in or around 128.
you mentioned code 64 but also code 42 appeared once during a trip down the track and has yet to reappear.............fyi (in my first initial post on this problem)
will run it around today in open loop with no code and then after the code to see how it responds
of your possible problem causes we can take AIR off the list as it is deleted.
on the 02s a few points/questions.........both banks go to 160 but i only get the code for the right 02.... at idle the left o2 is running between mid 200 and 400 and right is at 62 to mid 200......
If thats as high as your o2's are getting then I would go ahead and swap them both. Especially the passenger side o2.
more to update........
checked fuel injectors (resistance measured out to 16.2 which matches up for racetronix injectors that are in the car) and swapped from driver's side to passenger. noted some torn orings on interface between injector and intake so will replace before restart. no leaky injectors noted by turning the car to run with injectors in fuel rail and out of intake. do i need to have injector harnesses hooked up to completly verify this? and what is a lean injector?
Thanks.
Rob
checked fuel injectors (resistance measured out to 16.2 which matches up for racetronix injectors that are in the car) and swapped from driver's side to passenger. noted some torn orings on interface between injector and intake so will replace before restart. no leaky injectors noted by turning the car to run with injectors in fuel rail and out of intake. do i need to have injector harnesses hooked up to completly verify this? and what is a lean injector?
Thanks.
Rob
Go back to your O2 sensors. They should be moving rapidly over the range of 100-900mV's. If they are static, or staying below 450mV all the time in closed loop, either the O2 sensors are deceased, or the problem is extremely serious. It should be one that's staying at or below 200mV that's causing the code. If the other is moving above 200mV, it may not set the code in OBD-I.
Is there any chance the O2 sensors are externally contaminated... e.g. - an oil leak coating them? I've seen a car with leaking power steering fluid contaminate the sensor and cause it to sit at 200-300mV, causing the engine to run extremely rich, to the point of barely running.
If yours seems to run "OK" with the BLM's at 160, its most likely a "true" lean problem.
Is there any chance the O2 sensors are externally contaminated... e.g. - an oil leak coating them? I've seen a car with leaking power steering fluid contaminate the sensor and cause it to sit at 200-300mV, causing the engine to run extremely rich, to the point of barely running.
If yours seems to run "OK" with the BLM's at 160, its most likely a "true" lean problem.
Last edited by Injuneer; Apr 12, 2007 at 05:35 PM.
Go back to your O2 sensors. They should be moving rapidly over the range of 100-900mV's. If they are static, or staying below 450mV all the time in closed loop, either the O2 sensors are deceased, or the problem is extremely serious. It should be one that's staying at or below 200mV that's causing the code. If the other is moving above 200mV, it may not set the code in OBD-I.
Is there any chance the O2 sensors are externally contaminated... e.g. - an oil leak coating them? I've seen a car with leaking power steering fluid contaminate the sensor and cause it to sit at 200-300mV, causing the engine to run extremely rich, to the point of barely running.
If yours seems to run "OK" with the BLM's at 160, its most likely a "true" lean problem.
Is there any chance the O2 sensors are externally contaminated... e.g. - an oil leak coating them? I've seen a car with leaking power steering fluid contaminate the sensor and cause it to sit at 200-300mV, causing the engine to run extremely rich, to the point of barely running.
If yours seems to run "OK" with the BLM's at 160, its most likely a "true" lean problem.
well anything is possible I guess car was running with a bad oil leak (intake manifold gaskets causing it to burn oil) in the past but seemed to be ok now. Any chance the leaded 110 at the race track finished them off? I have already ordered new o2s from jason cromer so hopefully will have this sorted out in the very near future. Stay tuned for updates.


