Ok, got my new 355 up and running today and it sounds MEAN. Anyways, I'm having a big problem, it's overheating.

It was doing this with the other motor as well which is what I think led to its demise. I can hear the electric waterpump running, but my friend thinks it might be running backwards. Is that possible? I have it running off a relay, but if I change the positive and negative leads on the relay, should it run in the opposite direction or will it fry? It's meziere, btw. Could it be the radiator cap?

Also, I tried bleeding the system, but as with the other motor, it never finishes bleeding. Even at 200 degrees, it's still seeming to push air.

I have my heater core bypassed because it kept blowing them out. I'm also not running a thermostat right now because I wanted to keep it cool while I broke the motor in.

Other problem is that with my mail order tune, the left block learn is 160 and the RBL is 148. The headers were glowing pretty good the first time I ran it and burnt up an AIR and an ABS connector. They didn't seem to glow as much after a few starts. The O2's are working verified by scanmaster.

How much do I have to worry that I wasn't able to run it constantly for 20 minutes because it was overheating?

 

This is a common problem on overheating 3rd gens, if i recall 4th gens have them too. Look under the front of the car and see what kinda condition the plastic air spoiler is in. If those are in very poor condition or arent there at all on a 3rd gen the car will overheat badly on the road

 

I would put the thermostat back in.I don't think you are gaining much by leaving it out.
I have had pretty good luck filling the block with water through the thermostat opening and then bleeding the system.never had a problem with a lot of air left in it.

 

You can reverse the wires and the pump will run the other direction with no issues. Mine came wired wrong from the manufacturer and I had to reverse the wires to get it to turn the right direction.

 

you need a t-stat.....the water is probly pumping thru too fast and not cooling.

 

exactly what I thought...and I doubt your WP is turning backwards.

 

The other motor was running hot with the 160 thermostat in it as well.

It's not moving, so the air dam is the least of my concerns.

Do you know which way the ewp is supposed to be turning when looking at the "blades"?

 

My Mezeire was running backwards when I got it - it was a floor model from Summit and the Mezeire tech claimed that someone had taken it apart before and reassembled it wrong, but I don't know whether or not to believe that. Anyway, I took the casing apart and rotated the magnet ring (center section of the casing) 90 or 180*? (I can't remember) to get it to spin properly. I think you could also just switch the polarity of your wiring, which would be alot easier since it's already installed.
I'm just glad I checked its rotation before I installed it
I don't remember the direction of rotation, but it should spin so that the fins are "scooping" coolant from the outside of the impeller towards the center.

 

No thermostat is not your problem, you either have air in the system, your radiator is clogged, or that water pump isnt working, when you take off the coolant cap, do you see water flowing, when that pump is turned on?

 

EDIT: As discussed later in this thread, I may be wrong about the rotation of Meziere Electric impellers being CCW from the front. Appologies to Evildistinguished and Seawolf if so. Debate continues.

It may look like it's scooping from the outside, but it isn't. It's a centrifugal pump, and flows from center out. Thus, the water outflow passages from the impeller are tangential to the impeller OD.

I've never checked the LT1 rotation, but just looking at the housing I'd say it's pretty evident the rotation must be CCW as viewed from front of car.

[IMG][/IMG]

Credit: Base image stolen from Shoebox's great site, here:http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech1.html

Image cropped, and arrows added.

 

Crank and timing set both turn CW viewed from front, right? Pump drive reverses this with the 2 gears, so pump impeller would be CCW using that logic too, right?

Anybody know for sure?

 

Yes, the pump is supposed to turn counterclockwise, when looking straight at the impeller. Incidentally, this is the rotation direction that appears to be "scooping from the outside" if you actually look at the pump.

 

^thanks.

 

Seawolf, as was mentioned, you really need to put a working thermastat back in, while your checking for the proper rotation of the pump.

 

I ran coolant flush through it after the cam swap before the bearings spun, so I don't think the radiator is clogged. Is there a sure-fire way to check?

When the motor is off but hot and I turn the pump on, coolant doesn't flow from the steam pipe, but instead just fills up the radiator from the bottom and overflows. This is what I see with the cap off.

Thanks for all of the input, guys.