Bought the hotcam kit and I finally got everything apart following shbox guides. Cleaned all gasket surfaces, and chased all bolt holes. I have some questions, before I bolt everything up again.

1. I discovered the previous owner must have had the crank hub removed, and they didn't put it back on the correct way, so any type of alignment is off. I'm trying to figure out what I need to do but I want to check before I go ahead with it. I am going to put the bolt back in the the crank, and use a wrench to rotate it until the dot on the crank gear is at 12oclock. Then take the bolt out. Rotate the cam gear until the dot on it is at 6oclock. Then after I have bolted on the timing cover and everything, just make sure I reinstall the hub with the mark at 12oclock. Is this all correct?

2. The hotcam kit came with the valvesprings, caps, locks, and shims. The instructions state that I need to check clearances and heights, and use the shims as necessary. This is confusing, I thought that the hotcam kit was made for the lt1? Or are the shims used now instead of the valve seats, or are they used in conjunction with them? Maybe I am just confused because I haven't got to taking the valves apart yet.

3. Another valvetrain question. As I stated earlier, the instructions state that all sorts of different clearances need to be checked. However, these instructions are from the roller rocker manufacturer, and they sound like they are just generic instructions. Since it is a genuine LT1 hotcam kit, do I really need to check all the different measurements. I don't really want to take the time or buy the specialized tools if I really don't have to.

4. When cleaning the timing cover gasket surface, some gasket derbis fell into my lowered oilpan before I had the sense to cover it up. Whats the best way to get rid of all of the crap in the oilpan now? just pour in some cheap oil and drain it out again? The same thing happened with some of my coolant passages on the front of the block. Can I just flush out the passages with water, and let it drain out the drainholes?

5. Any other things I should do/check before everything goes back together? Anything I should check? Any simple mods I am forgetting while the engine is torn down?

Thats all for now. Thanks.

 

ttt

 

ttt please help

 

anyone? I could have been driving the car by now lol

 

I would advise contacting an engine builder and paying him to visit your garage and get you started. If you can just get him/her to help you get your crank and hub lined up and help you degree the cam if necessary, I believe you will be ready to finish it up.

You can also hit him up for some information regarding your other questions.

Given my limited knowledge, that is what I would do.

Maybe you can convince one of our experts to help you out, but sounds like you might have some problems getting to where you want to go. You have many questions and without actually being there, even our best of the best are probably shaking their heads.JMHO

 

1. Put the #1 piston at top dead center, you will need a stop or something to stick in the spark plug hole. Align the pointer on the hub straight up and attach. Close is good enough here since stuff is zero balaned.

2. Many install the springs without shimming and not caring about install height. Checking install height will ensure that all springs loads are equal. You can be the spring height tool for around $30.00. Its your call.

3. You need to check rocker geometry to ensure that roller tip placement is centered on the valve stems. Very important to do as you my need different size pushrods. DO NOT ASSUME HERE.

4.Suck it out with a shop vac and a crevice tool. Also do several oil changes.

5.Check the condition of the front cam bearing. If its worn then you will most likely encounter oil pressure problems in the future. I ended up rebuilding my engine when I found the front bearing was shot.

 

Yah, since all the "shims" that were included with the hotcam kit are the same size, and have a lip on them, I believe they are new seats. I checked out the front cam bearing, and it looked pretty good. I wish I had known before I bought the hotcam kit that it wasn't really something I could just install on the engine and go. Now its gonna take me another couple weeks to finish this job and another couple hundred dollars to buy all the measuring tools . I guess it goes to show you should always budget in the money for extras when planning mods. This cam swap ended up turning into a 1 month, $2400 job lol.