Which timing chain are you guys running. I am installing a cam and wanted to upgrade my timing chain. I have swapped my water pump to an electric one if that helps with which timing chain I should purchase. Thanks for any advice.

 

With stock gear driven pump i would go with a LT4 ED timing set

but

since you have a ewp i would go for sure with a cloyes double roller.

 

You need to let us know what year your car is because that'll change what chain you can run with out switching opti's.

 

I believe the Cloyes Single Roller bolts straight up without mods. The double roller requires a different cover.

 

it doesn't require a different cover, but it isn't necessary for hyd. rollers. some will say it's even overkill for SR applications depending on the severity of the cam/springs.

 

I have a 95 T/A and my cam has 230/236 .576/.570 and I have the comp bee hive springs and 1.6 comp roller rockers. Which timing chain should I get without overdoing it. I have the MSD vented opti going back on. If I have to change timing chain covers then which one is the best for the money. Thanks for any advice.

 

LT4 Extreme Duty chain should easily take care of you. You really only have 3 choices.
1. Stock timing chain.
2. LT4 Extreme Duty, perfectly fine for Heads/Cam setup, but only works on vented opti.
3. Cloyes Double roller timing chain. (Best Chain strengthwise) Only works with vented opti, requires grinding timing chain cover and E-waterpump.

 

Since you have the electric waterpump, you can easily use the Cloyes set. Otherwise, as mentioned, the LT4 is another good option, but that is a pretty expensive set.

 

I'll do the grind work and save money and have the better chain. Does anyone have a part number for the cloyles or a comp one that would work. I prefer comp but whatever I can get as long as it serves the purpose will do. Thanks

 

I checked a few different forums out and found out that some peopl;e are running the comp one part number is CCA-2136 at summit. Is anyone using that one?

 

Bump

 

Does anyone have pics of where to grind on the cover?

 

First put the chain on the motor and bolt it up. After that smear some grease on the edge of the chain. Then put the timing chain cover up and try to align the bolt holes. Then remove the cover and you have a grease line where you need to grind. Then after you've ground the area make sure its clean and try it again. Make sure you take out a wide enough chunk that if the chain moves back and forth from slop that it won't hit the cover. When you have no grease on the cover you're good to go.

 

ok just to let you know, I think stock would be fine. I used a NEW stock chain when I did my LE2/GM847 swap and beat the ever living **** out of my car on a daily basis spinning it to 6600 more times than the amount of posts Ive made on this board and it was completely fine.Everyone says DONT do it cuz theyve "heard" its bad and I "did" it and was completely fine after 3,000 of the hardest driven miles you can drive on a car.

 

Yeah and there was a guy on here that went out and snapped a brand new stock chain on his 383 on the first or second WOT run. Many others on here have had stock chaings break. The stock chain also can stretch and produce inaccurate valve timing, which hurts performance as well. Its not a good idea to run a stocker.