Head removal?
Head removal?
I have what i believe to be a blown headgasket. rather than doing a leakdown test to see what side its on, i just want to replace bothe gaskets at once. my question is, whats the easiest way to remove the heads? pull the motor? that brings another question, pull it up or pull it under? this car has given me nothing but problems, ive already put $1k into it since i bought it, and it doesnt even have 600miles on it. also, so i dont need to make another thread later, whats the torque sequence and torque specs on the heads? i know its a good idea to do headers and more mods while im doing this, but i cant afford it. the car will stay stock until after bootcamp in the spring. my honda never had these problems, and was only a half second slower than this thing, and would turn circles around it.. not my first experience with american muscle, but certainly my worst.
If you're just doing head gaskets, leave the engine in the car. As much as I hate working on that kind of stuff with the engine in the bay, if you're not doing anything *fun* to the car, just swap 'em in there.
Just disconnect the manifolds and move them out of the way entirely.
Torque spec on the heads depends on what type of bolt you are using. If using stock type TTY bolts, you'll have to use the angle method, but if you're replacing the bolts (since you have to anyways, stock bolts stretch) with a set of ARP's (might as well since you can reuse them), it's a 3 step 20-40-65 ft/lbs deal.
Here is the sequence off shoebox's site:
http://shbox.com/ci/head_assy.jpg
While it sucks you're having problems, remember that many problems are usually the fault of the previous owner, not the car itself.
Just disconnect the manifolds and move them out of the way entirely.
Torque spec on the heads depends on what type of bolt you are using. If using stock type TTY bolts, you'll have to use the angle method, but if you're replacing the bolts (since you have to anyways, stock bolts stretch) with a set of ARP's (might as well since you can reuse them), it's a 3 step 20-40-65 ft/lbs deal.
Here is the sequence off shoebox's site:
http://shbox.com/ci/head_assy.jpg
While it sucks you're having problems, remember that many problems are usually the fault of the previous owner, not the car itself.
A very helpful pointer for pulling both of the heads: Get all of the bolts out of the heads (pop them free) and the manifolds moved back away. Then, have a buddy lift on one head as you lift on the other. Lift them off together and set them down. This way, you can dick with the coolant line connecting the heads together on the OUTSIDE of the car. It can be a bitch and is much easier if they're laying on a work bench (less chance of rounding them off). Just FYI.
I have what i believe to be a blown headgasket. rather than doing a leakdown test to see what side its on, i just want to replace bothe gaskets at once. my question is, whats the easiest way to remove the heads? pull the motor? that brings another question, pull it up or pull it under? this car has given me nothing but problems, ive already put $1k into it since i bought it, and it doesnt even have 600miles on it. also, so i dont need to make another thread later, whats the torque sequence and torque specs on the heads? i know its a good idea to do headers and more mods while im doing this, but i cant afford it. the car will stay stock until after bootcamp in the spring. my honda never had these problems, and was only a half second slower than this thing, and would turn circles around it.. not my first experience with american muscle, but certainly my worst.
the low coolant light came on one night, i added coolant, started the car, and a ridiculous amount of white smoke started coming out the tailpipes, and it smelled like coolant. coolant light came back on, and coolant was very low. my oil is clean though. i also spoke to a personal friend whom is a head mechanic of a shop and has been for 20 years, he says its probably a blown gasket. i looked around the engine bay, its awful tight in there, do you guys think i could get it done in a couple days working in my garage?
Your biggest enemies will be getting the exhaust manifold bolts out, the exhaust unbolted and moved out of the way (especially if the flange bolts are rusty) and getting the coolant lines off in one piece from behind both cylinder heads.
Do some searches. I think shoebox has a guide as well. Study hard before loosening any bolts.
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dbusch22
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Oct 31, 2016 11:09 AM



