Just started my motor for the first time lastnight and everything was going well. When I went to go drive it, within a minute the temp gauge was pegged. When I realized that I shut it off, and then Got it back to the garage and started thinking what could be wrong. Well I hate to say it but I forgot to bleed the system. Did that and its still running hot. The thermostat is only 2 years old, so idk what it could be. The radiator is cool but the motor is running hot. Any suggestions?

 

Keep bleeding it.

 

Werd. I had the same problem after changing the head gaskets. Keep bleeding it, should be fine.

 

We were bleeding it for like a half an hour and don't hear air coming out anymore. No fluid was coming out of the bleeder unless there was also air coming out, but now it is nothing. Could it be the thermo? What are the chances of me doing damage to my new motor already?

 

I can't say as far as damage goes. But did you flush you radiator out when you did your rebuild. When the radiator sits dry without being flushed, all of the junk and stuff cloggs your radiator. That's atleast what the radiator shop told me to have mine inspected because mine was running warmer than normal after my rebuild. You can test you thermostat in a pot of hot water to see if it opens.

ZMAN

 

Ya still got the crossover tube on the back of the heads? Got a new electric WP? Fans coming on?

 

The fans are kicking on, and I replaced the crossover tube so I know thats good. I didn't get the radiator flushed or baked or anything. Are the replacement radiators on ebay any good? I know they are only like $100 and mine could probably use replacing. I know that the coolant is getting to the heads because I had to change the temp sensor in the head.

 

If ya got a high HP unit ya might think of a larger radiator.
If not larger I would take mine to the shop and have them rot it out vs. an eBay one.
If it didn't run hot before I would keep bleeding,maybe jack the car up in the front to get the rad higher than the motor.
If ya got a new electric pump it may be turning backwards,so check the wiring.

 

I have a factory waterpump. I don't think that I'm pushing to much power, at least I hope not because the aluminum radiators I've seen are $800 and thats rediculous. How much roughly does it cost to get the radiator boiled or whatever your talking about? I did have to rebuild due to a blown headgasket so maybe there is crap in there and it does need to be cleaned or replaced.

 

Maybe 50-60 dollars. Call a radiator shop in your area and see.That's with you taking it out.

 

You could try a couple of things.

Try dumping the coolant into the filler neck.. just remover the neck and dump it in. That will bypass the thermostat and allow for most of the trapped air to be bled out. Then fire up the motor once its all back together and unscrew the brass bleed screws till you see coolant.

 

It cost me 20.00 cash to have them test and flush mine. It cost 35.00 if I didn't pay in cash. I don't know how much to have it rod out. It probably won't be that much more. Give a radiator shop a call. It would be a lot cheaper then buying a new one, if it can be rodded or just a good flushing.

ZMAN

 

Sounds like you have a bubble in the system still.

Have you tried jacking the car up in the front?

 

This may sound like a stupid question but did you make sure you have the water pump splined coupler connected?

 

Trust me ... that's NOT a stupid question.