LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Anyone using this crank as a stock replacement?

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Old Jan 2, 2004 | 02:05 PM
  #1  
shoebox's Avatar
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Anyone using this crank as a stock replacement?

Manufacturer: Eagle
Mfg part #: 103523480

Cast steel crankshaft


New std./std. crankshaft offers:
.092 radius on rod, main journals, rear seal & snout for increased strength & still use inexpensive OE bearings!
Reliability at an affordable price.
Each "ESP" crankshaft is inspected for dimension, size and stroke accuracy.
Journal finish of 6 R.A. or less.

Stroke 3.480
Rod Length 5.700
Bobweight 1870*
Rod Journal 2.100
Main Journal 2.450
balance Internal
Seal type 1 pc

* Target bobweight ±2% reduces balancing time
Is this a decent stock replacement crank that can be intalled "right out of the box"?

I was also curious if anyone knows if the bob weight figure was ok for the LT1 (or what the typical LT1 bob weight figure is).


It sucks having a spun bearing/trashed crank for Christmas/New Years.
Old Jan 2, 2004 | 03:24 PM
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Based on my experience with balancing my crank internally, I think you will have a fine piece to replace the stock unit. I noticed that you put down there "internal". Well even OEM cranks have to be balanced. However they, as you know, are external balanced. If you stay with external, it would be so much easier and cheap to balance. If you go internal balance, there is a good chance you will need to add weight which is time consuming and costly.
Old Jan 2, 2004 | 04:23 PM
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The quote, including the balancing statement, was from a website description of the product.

I do not intend to get into balancing unless I have to. My intent was to spend as little $$ as possible to get the car back on the road. I know it is a perfect time to mod, but I have other priorities at the moment.
Old Jan 2, 2004 | 04:48 PM
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Eagle cranks arent too bad at all! There not the best in the world. but its an improvment over stock thats for SURE! Especally if your getting a good price on it id say take the crank and run
Old Jan 2, 2004 | 05:36 PM
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Originally posted by slopokrodrigez
Based on my experience with balancing my crank internally, I think you will have a fine piece to replace the stock unit. I noticed that you put down there "internal". Well even OEM cranks have to be balanced. However they, as you know, are external balanced. If you stay with external, it would be so much easier and cheap to balance. If you go internal balance, there is a good chance you will need to add weight which is time consuming and costly.
I think what shobox was referring to was front internal balance. GM started externally balancing in the rear when they went to one-piece rear seals.

400's were externally balanced front and rear.
305/350 one piece rear seal were external balance rear only, but most refer to them as internal balance.
All others were true internally balanced.

But. . . I just installed an Eagle "internal balance" one-piece rear seal 383 crank. With Eagle 5.7 rods and SRP 31 cc pistons, it was badly out of balance in the rear. After removing the factory balance weight from the flexplate, it had near perfect balance. So, at least some of the Eagle cranks are "true" internal balance.

Mike
Old Jan 2, 2004 | 08:12 PM
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Originally posted by engineermike
I think what shobox was referring to was front internal balance. GM started externally balancing in the rear when they went to one-piece rear seals.

400's were externally balanced front and rear.
305/350 one piece rear seal were external balance rear only, but most refer to them as internal balance.
All others were true internally balanced.

But. . . I just installed an Eagle "internal balance" one-piece rear seal 383 crank. With Eagle 5.7 rods and SRP 31 cc pistons, it was badly out of balance in the rear. After removing the factory balance weight from the flexplate, it had near perfect balance. So, at least some of the Eagle cranks are "true" internal balance.

Mike
Hmm...well what I am looking for is a replacement crank that does have any additional challenges [expense]. I was hoping someone had used this exact crank and was able to bolt it in and go. Maybe someone will post, yet.
Old Jan 2, 2004 | 11:38 PM
  #7  
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dont know about that crank specifically but i have talked to a few area problems that have had nothing but bad luck with Eagle cranks. i am going to be using the Scat 9000 cast crank. i have read a lot of good reviews on it. just a sugestion.
Old Jan 2, 2004 | 11:54 PM
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I've heard good things too from experienced engine builders aout the Scat 9000 crank
Old Jan 3, 2004 | 01:01 AM
  #9  
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There is a guy on ebay selling used stock LT1 cranks for like $30 if I remember right. You might send him an email and see if he has one you could use as-is.

Ben
Old Jan 3, 2004 | 02:42 AM
  #10  
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Shoebox,

I always figured you'd go all out and get crazy like the rest of us when it came time for a rebuild.

Eagle's ESP cranks are pretty good. You can order an entire rotating assembly from Eagle and have them balance it for you, although it might be a good idea to have a machine shop double check everything.
Old Jan 3, 2004 | 03:35 AM
  #11  
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Originally posted by TCAL95Z
I've heard good things too from experienced engine builders aout the Scat 9000 crank
I've heard, also from experienced engine builders, that Scat is short for Scatter.

The only bad thing my experienced engine builder says about Eagle is that the journals are a couple ten thousands oversized so it helps to align hone the mains a touch more than normal.

Find out from Eagle if it is internal or external balance in the rear. If external, it should bolt in. My Eagle crank was internal front and rear.

Mike
Old Jan 3, 2004 | 12:12 PM
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lol,

Pretty funny Mike, it does depend on who you ask.

The main thing I always hear about Eagle is just what you mentioned is that their cranks aren't the right size. I don't like the fact that it isn't made right the first time. I've never heard that about Scat from any builder
Old Jan 3, 2004 | 02:28 PM
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Originally posted by 97WS6SCharged
Shoebox,

I always figured you'd go all out and get crazy like the rest of us when it came time for a rebuild.

Eagle's ESP cranks are pretty good. You can order an entire rotating assembly from Eagle and have them balance it for you, although it might be a good idea to have a machine shop double check everything.

I wish I did not have other monetary priorities at the moment or I would probably do a complete rotating assy.

Based on the feedback so far, I will ask a slightly different question:
Anyone that bought a bolt in replacement crank, what did you get?

BBoyce: thanks for the input. If I were to buy a crank used, I really would like to see it in person, first.

Last edited by shoebox; Jan 3, 2004 at 02:32 PM.
Old Jan 3, 2004 | 02:47 PM
  #14  
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Rob I have a stock crank with 50,000 miles on it nothing visbly wrong with it out of a 97Z.I will give to for just shipping be glad to help you out.
Old Jan 3, 2004 | 02:55 PM
  #15  
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Originally posted by ChevyIron
Rob I have a stock crank with 50,000 miles on it nothing visbly wrong with it out of a 97Z.I will give to for just shipping be glad to help you out.



How far are you from me? Any idea on what it would cost to ship? If you want to email me a response, I have more questions. I am using my computer in the garage , but will check my email as I can.



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