Same electrical question
Same electrical question
I asked this about 6 months ago and couldn't get any input at all, so I figured I'd try one more time.
I have a 94 Formula. Whenever either door gets opened, the dinger goes off. It makes a different noise when the lights are on. As you can imagine, it's pretty annoying especially when doing work inside the car with the door open
Anyone have the same problem, or any idea on how to go about fixing it?
I have a 94 Formula. Whenever either door gets opened, the dinger goes off. It makes a different noise when the lights are on. As you can imagine, it's pretty annoying especially when doing work inside the car with the door open
Anyone have the same problem, or any idea on how to go about fixing it?
It's pretty interesting that you are in VA beach, I'm in Smithfield. Nice to have you here.
Anyway if I understand what you're saying, the chime sounds inside the car as if you left the keys in or the lights on but neither is the case.
When the key is in the ignition when the door is open the chime is slower then when the lights are on and the door is open. I guess if you haven't paid attention to the sounds before (like I didn't until you asked the question) then telling you that won't help any. If you could listen to someone elses, you would know which circuit is involved. I did check the schematic and found that there is no other contacts in the light switch just for the audible alarm so if the light switch were the problem then the lights would be on also. If the lights aren't on, then that circuit is not the problem.
Only the LH door switch should set off the tone. NOT the passenger door. I do know however that alarm systems will use the door switch inputs as a source for an alarm. Is there any chance you have an aftermarket alarm system? If so, that is connecting the 2 door switch inputs together.
So the first place to look is the ignition switch. Perhaps the sensor(switch) is stuck in and is acting like the key is in when it is not. Try spraying a small amount of WD40 in the ignition switch and work the key in and out a few times. If the switch were stuck, this may free it up. I would then recommend following up with a small shot of compressed air to clear some of the fluid from the PASS KEY system contacts. Don't worry, the WD40 will not harm anything and will even clean up some things.
If that doesn't work, try disconnecting the wires for the switch at the base of the steering column. They are connected to the black 11 pin connector. Simply unplugging this connector will make the chime go off if the switch is the problem.
If that doesn't work, there is probably a ground short at the input to the audio alarm module. You can easily check that when the 11 pin connector is apart by reading pin F (third from the end) which has a light green wire on it. Check it to ground with an ohm meter. It should not be grounded.
Good luck. Maybe we can talk some time since your in Tidewater.
Anyway if I understand what you're saying, the chime sounds inside the car as if you left the keys in or the lights on but neither is the case.
When the key is in the ignition when the door is open the chime is slower then when the lights are on and the door is open. I guess if you haven't paid attention to the sounds before (like I didn't until you asked the question) then telling you that won't help any. If you could listen to someone elses, you would know which circuit is involved. I did check the schematic and found that there is no other contacts in the light switch just for the audible alarm so if the light switch were the problem then the lights would be on also. If the lights aren't on, then that circuit is not the problem.
Only the LH door switch should set off the tone. NOT the passenger door. I do know however that alarm systems will use the door switch inputs as a source for an alarm. Is there any chance you have an aftermarket alarm system? If so, that is connecting the 2 door switch inputs together.
So the first place to look is the ignition switch. Perhaps the sensor(switch) is stuck in and is acting like the key is in when it is not. Try spraying a small amount of WD40 in the ignition switch and work the key in and out a few times. If the switch were stuck, this may free it up. I would then recommend following up with a small shot of compressed air to clear some of the fluid from the PASS KEY system contacts. Don't worry, the WD40 will not harm anything and will even clean up some things.
If that doesn't work, try disconnecting the wires for the switch at the base of the steering column. They are connected to the black 11 pin connector. Simply unplugging this connector will make the chime go off if the switch is the problem.
If that doesn't work, there is probably a ground short at the input to the audio alarm module. You can easily check that when the 11 pin connector is apart by reading pin F (third from the end) which has a light green wire on it. Check it to ground with an ohm meter. It should not be grounded.
Good luck. Maybe we can talk some time since your in Tidewater.
Last edited by slopokrodrigez; Jan 1, 2004 at 10:46 AM.
Push the switch button on the door jamb in and put something against it to keep it from popping out. OR.... unscrew the switch from the door jamb and add another switch to the wire so you can switch it off when you don't want the bell.... OR go under the dash and pop the "dinger" module out.... OR pull the key about 1/2-way out of the ignition.... the dinger should only work when the key is fully inserted.
Let's see no alarm system at all, I would like the dinger to work if I leave my keys in or lights on. It always goes off, whether the key is in the ignition or not.
Slopok, shoot me a pm if you want to talk...got a few F-body buds around here that don't frequent the board also.
Slopok, shoot me a pm if you want to talk...got a few F-body buds around here that don't frequent the board also.
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