well guys,

as much as I tried to avoid it, I must drive my camaro in the winter and store the trans am But the really bad part is that I don't have a garage that I can put it in, so I have to store it outside in the driveway.

So far I've thought up these steps to help winterize it


*Put rims on it with crappy tires so they don't get flat bottoms

*Disconnect negative battery cable

*Wash/Wax the hell outa it

*Bought an (expensive) car cover that says it will protect against any weather

*Bought some "Sta-Bil fogging oil and cylinder protector". They said at autozone that if I take out each plug and spray this in, it'll protect for the whole winter outside. ???

*WD-40 all hinges and latches and spray some in each exhaust pipe.



if anyone has any other idea's I would GREATLY appreciate it. Thanks a lot :-D

 

ditch the WD-40 and get a can of white lithium grease. That will protect and lubricate alot better and longer than WD-40. Its also easy to see when you need more. I would spray ANYTHING you think might rust during the winter with it, and youll be all set.

 

Taken from JonM (aka TOGWT) on www.Detailersclub.com

"Storing your vehicle, ranging from a convertible that's reserved for sunny days to a show car for whatever reason, only requires a few precautions to ensure that it is preserved and will be operational after it’s in winter hibernation. All cars hate to sit idle, so don't expect to top off the fluids and drive out of the garage.

But a little work now can protect a vehicle from rust, animals and other storage-related headaches. To help vehicle owners keep their stored vehicles in good shape, here are a few storage tips.

Vehicle Storage
•Change the oil and filter.
•Replace brake fluid with DOT 3
•Do not drain the fuel tank, as an empty tank will cause condensation and it will start to rust! Top off fuel tank, then pour Stabil into the tank and run it for a few minutes (to get it into the fuel lines) If you don't cycle your fuel through the tank every two months, it starts an oxidation process and will turn into varnish over time, this can clog your fuel lines, One ounce protects three gallons of any type of fuel.
•Top off coolant with a 50/50 water and corrosion inhibitor and fill all fluids
•Spray distributor with WD-40
•Protect the paint, give the vehicle a good washing, dry it thoroughly and then apply an oil rich polish.
•Clean the interior of the car, apply a generous coating of Leatherique Rejuvinator oil to all leather surfaces, and use a box of DampRid moisture absorbing products, also leave a bar of scented soap under the seats (vermin don't like the smell)
•Apply Wurth HHS-2000 clear spray lubricant to seat rails and sunroof guide rails
•Apply a conditioner to `rubber' weather stripping (Zymol Seal)
•Apply leather conditioner to all leather surfaces.
•Close all windows, trunk, and hood, and stuff the exhaust with a cloth to ensure mice do not enter
•Close windows but leave a small gap to ensure rubber seals are not completely flattened, same for doors, close to first `click'
•Over inflate the tyres (50psi) Do not place car jacks as these will unload the suspension and may do harm. Some vehicles should not be stored with the suspensions unloaded (check with manufacturer)
•Store the car in gear; do not apply the emergency brake.
•Remove sparkplugs and inject a little oil down into each of the cylinders.
•Remove the battery, clean and store separately (the myth about storing a battery on concrete is just that, a myth) coat the terminals with Wurth battery and terminal cleaner, do the same thing with the cable terminals, coat battery hold down bolts with WD40.
•Alternatively use a Battery Tender, a fully automatic two-stage lead acid battery charger, lightweight, compact size, trickle charger that assures batteries are maintained after charging. Ideal for all lead-acid, sealed maintenance free and gel cell batteries. After full 14.4 VDC charge is reached, converts to float charger and monitors battery at 13.2 volts. When voltage drops below 12.6 VDC, charger resumes charging back to 14.4 VDC. Two-colour LED indicator, Spark-proof; reverse polarity protected, twelve-foot output cord and quick-connect harness. Comes with a set of quick disconnect clamps and rings
•Cover the car with a good quality cotton car cover. If you are storing the vehicle outside use a UV sunshade on the windshield and rear window, plus a car cover
•Place a plastic sheet under to the vehicle to avoid dampness capillary action and it will also form a moisture barrier.
•Store convertibles with the top up. Convertible tops can actually shrink if they are left in the down position, for an extended period of time.
•Inspect the vehicle from time to time and check to ensure that the DampRid is still operational

{each one / teach one][then student /becomes teacher}
JonM "

 

J/w what is the wd-40 in the exhaust pipes for?

 

Please don't post the same threads into multiple forums.
Thanks.

 

Well today I attempted to switch the rims from my Camaro (winter car) onto my T/A and put the 17's on the Camaro for the winter. That way I could let the T/A sit on the POS rims/tires and not care if they get messed up. But of course......THEY DON'T FIT!!!

So now I'm stuck with buying new tires for the Camaro and leaving the brand new rims/tires on the T/A to store outside for the winter. I'm worried that the bottoms will flatten or they will get messed up somehow. I'd say I could drive it down the street once every week but I'm fogging the cylinders so I can't start it til the spring. Do you think they will be alright just until like march/april? I was thinking about just putting it in neutral every week and pushing it a little bit. I dono lol :/ Any advice would be greatly appreciated

 

Personally I would put a good sealant on the wheels and the whole car and I would leave the engine alone and just drive it every other week a little bit.