Hey guys, I have a '94 Ford Probe that I purchased this summer from my brother. My family has owned the car since it was new in '94 (my mom bought it off the lot). It's probably only been waxed once since then and the paint is fading pretty badly. Everytime I try to put any wax on it, it seems like it just soaks the wax into the car and makes it look worse.

Is there any way to fix this, or at least make it look a little better?? Would rubbing compound work??

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Brian

A4 w/3.73, Hypertech, Loudmouth cat-back, !MAF, K&N cai, air foil, APC clear corners, Voxx Argus 17x9s, Eibach Pro-kit, BMR relocation brackets, BMR adj panhard rod

Member - WV Air National Guard

 

Yeah, a good rubbing compound would be a great start. I'd highly recommend 3M Perfect-It Rubbing Compound- Fine Cut (liquid) #39002. You can find it at NAPA or Carquest. Most rubbing compounds require a buffer to break the abrasives down properly, but there are a few that don't. The 3M Fine Cut works by hand or buffer. But, be warned, this product will work your arm really hard for it to work properly. It requires a lot of rubbing to buff out, but most compounds do, that's why a buffer is better for this stage. 3M also makes a Medium Cut or Heavy Cut, but they recommend those be used by buffer only, not hand.

Here's the 3M site where you can read up on the products. http://www.3m.com/market/automotive/product4.html

Here's some other compounds you may like, but most require a buffer so read carefully: http://www.goodspeedmotoring.com/sub...gory=Compounds

Also, after you compound, usually you MUST follow with a swirl mark remover to polish the fine compounding marks out. I use Meguiar's Swirl Mark Remover #9 2.0 for this, since I feel it works well by hand and buffs out very easily. 3M also makes a SMR for dark cars #39009 that is as good as or better than Meguiar's, BUT, I don't think it works as well by hand as Meg's since it has to break down.

After you compound and polish then apply your favorite wax or sealant for protection. All these steps require a bit of work but are necessary for paint in your condition. Waxing over damaged paint will do no good, as you have already found out.

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*Mike's 1992 Camaro RS 25th Anniv.*
Dark Red Metallic (ext.) / Flame Red (int.)
Flowmaster Crossflow, K&N, 20% 3M Panther Black Tint
JL Audio 3 10", PPI PC2100, Kenwood eXcelon KRC-953H/U, Kenwood / Pioneer speakers
ZAINO! - The Perfect Shine. Special Thanks to Sal Z!
My Guitars, Metallica Style! \M/

 

Wow...Thanks Mike!!! That's exactly what I was looking for!

One more quick question...when you say buffer, do you mean a high speed buffer, or will an orbital buffer work as well?



[This message has been edited by silver97Z (edited February 20, 2002).]

 

No prob!

About buffers: If you've never used one before, stay away from high speed rotarty buffers. In the hands of a novice, you can ruin any paint job in minutes. These buffers are meant for true professionals or those with lots of experience using this type.

Instead, a dual action polisher or random orbit is the tool for do-it-yourselfers. I'm gonna pick up a Porter Cable dual action polisher (#7336) in a couple months hopefully. Honestly, it's about the best out there for it's relatively affordable price ($109 to $200 depending on where you shop). Those buffers you find in AutoZone or Wal-Mart type shops will work, but they're not the best. The best advice on buffers, if you get one, is to let the buffer do the work and never press the buffer into the paint, especially on the round edges of your car as the paint is thinner in these areas.

Good Luck!

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*Mike's 1992 Camaro RS 25th Anniv.*
Dark Red Metallic (ext.) / Flame Red (int.)
Flowmaster Crossflow, K&N, 20% 3M Panther Black Tint
JL Audio 3 10", PPI PC2100, Kenwood eXcelon KRC-953H/U, Kenwood / Pioneer speakers
ZAINO! - The Perfect Shine. Special Thanks to Sal Z!
My Guitars, Metallica Style! \M/