5 months worth of grime....
5 months worth of grime....
Now that I'm back from my deployment my car's got some SERIOUS grunge on it. Built up pollen and hard water deposits are in all the nooks and crannies. I'm not real sure what to use on it without damaging the paint.
There are hard water deposits all over the glass as well. Water spots are a pet pieve of mine, and I've never had this problem before, not this bad anyway. It's hard to see through the windshield. I'm thinking I'll go to a glass shop tomorrow and get an estimate to get all 4 windows polished.
I think I can get the haze off the paint with a good cleaning compound, polish, and wax. What do you think? Take it to a detailer?
There are hard water deposits all over the glass as well. Water spots are a pet pieve of mine, and I've never had this problem before, not this bad anyway. It's hard to see through the windshield. I'm thinking I'll go to a glass shop tomorrow and get an estimate to get all 4 windows polished.
I think I can get the haze off the paint with a good cleaning compound, polish, and wax. What do you think? Take it to a detailer?
You should start with a wash, obviously, then clay the car first. Then you will probably need a good strong paint cleaner or swirl remover for the paint. The 3M SMR is good, however I always had good luck with Meguiar's Body Scrub for water spotting problems. Somthing like Meguiar's Dual Action Cleaner Polish may work well for you too, since it has a tad more bite than a light swirl remover, but less than a compiound. If these light abrasives do not work, it will require a cutting compound, which come in light to heavy varieties. However, if the grime is so bad that it will require you to compound the whole car, I'd just take it over to a pro detailer and save yourself a lot of trouble. You can get good results from compounding, but it requires a lot of time and effort for a full restoration. Who knows, you may not even need a compound, so try the light abrasives/cleaners first and see where that gets you.
For the glass, you will need a glass polish for starters. Zaino's glass polish works well for this, but it may require more than one application for best results. And the polish must be worked in with a good bit of pressure to remove the spots in glass.
After your paint looks to your standard, finish it off with your favorite wax or polymer sealant.
For the glass, you will need a glass polish for starters. Zaino's glass polish works well for this, but it may require more than one application for best results. And the polish must be worked in with a good bit of pressure to remove the spots in glass.
After your paint looks to your standard, finish it off with your favorite wax or polymer sealant.
I would wash it, clay it, inspect the paint to see if the clay removed the spots, if not use 3M Swirl mark Remover part number 39009 and then follow up with your final finish wax or polish.
Zaino Z-12 Glass Polish will remove any and all water spots you have on the glass.........
Zaino Z-12 Glass Polish will remove any and all water spots you have on the glass.........
Well, I went to a couple well-known shops today. Both of them mentioned acid. One of them tested a small area on the hood, and man it took the grime right off with hardly any rubbing! They did point out that the paint wasn't oxidized, which I already knew. I asked them what the acid was, but they were hesitant to tell me and only said it was a mixture.
Do you guys know what they're talking about, and where I can get it? Maybe an auto-body chemical supply store?
- Brent
Do you guys know what they're talking about, and where I can get it? Maybe an auto-body chemical supply store?
- Brent
Originally posted by Compstall
Well, I went to a couple well-known shops today. Both of them mentioned acid. One of them tested a small area on the hood, and man it took the grime right off with hardly any rubbing! They did point out that the paint wasn't oxidized, which I already knew. I asked them what the acid was, but they were hesitant to tell me and only said it was a mixture.
Do you guys know what they're talking about, and where I can get it? Maybe an auto-body chemical supply store?
- Brent
Well, I went to a couple well-known shops today. Both of them mentioned acid. One of them tested a small area on the hood, and man it took the grime right off with hardly any rubbing! They did point out that the paint wasn't oxidized, which I already knew. I asked them what the acid was, but they were hesitant to tell me and only said it was a mixture.
Do you guys know what they're talking about, and where I can get it? Maybe an auto-body chemical supply store?
- Brent
Acid washes are an alternative to claying, but not popular among the average detailer because they are more hazardous to use. The acid basically dissolves the contaminants, whereas clay just picks them up. I personally would not use an acid wash as an alternative to clay. If acid is stong enough to dissolve all kinds of stuff on paint, then IMO, it can't be too great for the paint itself either. Claying isn't abrasive and uses no chemicals....it just "pulls" up the grime. So, I would rather use the clay and do it right and safe. The acid baths are for those that do not want to go to the effort of claying, and want the quickest way out.
Acid washes are used by some auto dealers, just to name one, for a quick prep before waxing. But, most of us know that auto dealers are usually the last place to take the car for proper detailing.
Acid washes are used by some auto dealers, just to name one, for a quick prep before waxing. But, most of us know that auto dealers are usually the last place to take the car for proper detailing.
Last edited by MikeLS; Jul 22, 2003 at 10:51 AM.
Water spots on glass can usually be removed by steel wool, and/or using a buffing pad on a drill with some compound/swirl mark remover type stuff.
Acid will work for your paint (perhaps windows too)...it binds with the metals and mineral stuff that the water left behind. Basically it's wheel cleaner...something with phosphoric acid in it. The reason the guy was hesitant was probably because he didn't know what kind--our detail shop buys it and it's labeled "foaming aluminum brightener." It also has the little death skull/poison sign on the side. Any strong acidic cleaners can do other damage, so test on any plastic or clearcoated rims/other exposed metals first...and watch out if it gets on you--it gives you a good tingle.
Acid will work for your paint (perhaps windows too)...it binds with the metals and mineral stuff that the water left behind. Basically it's wheel cleaner...something with phosphoric acid in it. The reason the guy was hesitant was probably because he didn't know what kind--our detail shop buys it and it's labeled "foaming aluminum brightener." It also has the little death skull/poison sign on the side. Any strong acidic cleaners can do other damage, so test on any plastic or clearcoated rims/other exposed metals first...and watch out if it gets on you--it gives you a good tingle.
im not sure if this will work for the water spots, because they sound almost impossible to get off....but on out boat, it would get some crazy water spots on it, where the hard to reach places are...because after the boat gets out of the water we would all get out and dry it off, but there are spots that we could not reach...anyway it would build up water spots, and my dad would always use just a mixture of vinager and water...id imagine using more vinager in your case...but just try it out, see how it works.
Thanks for the help. I decided to take it off the hard way, and spent 8 hours on it the other day with Macguire's #2 Fine Cut cleaner, Polish, and hand waxed it. Looks good now, but I still have the water spots on the glass. The detail shop quoted me $60 to clean them up, but I'm contemplating buying a rotary buffer from Sears and doing it myself for the same price. At least I'll have the buffer for next time, and it's a lot more effective than an orbital.
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