need some info before getting headers
need some info before getting headers
well going to be getting some headers before the summer here and before i get the car on the road, will be longtubes for sure thinking of getting the PACESETTER LT's after hearing good things from chriss, and other posts of them. Few questions i have are
1) chriss what did you pay for the coated ones in total?
2) do i need to tune the car once there on
3) what else along with the headers do i need to purchase (ie y pipe, o2 sims etc)
4) also is aircare going to be a problem with LT's (ill be running cats still)
5) and how hard was the install
few but very simple questions that i have, always got a few questions before jumping into something, so rather ask some guys who have done it before.
1) chriss what did you pay for the coated ones in total?
2) do i need to tune the car once there on
3) what else along with the headers do i need to purchase (ie y pipe, o2 sims etc)
4) also is aircare going to be a problem with LT's (ill be running cats still)
5) and how hard was the install
few but very simple questions that i have, always got a few questions before jumping into something, so rather ask some guys who have done it before.
tuning is not necessary but you will get more power out of the setup. Headers will make your car think it is running lean, so the PCM will add extra fuel at WOT making your car actually run too rich.
You will probably gain 15 rwhp from the headers alone and then possibly 10-15 more from tuning.
You will probably gain 15 rwhp from the headers alone and then possibly 10-15 more from tuning.
You could buy a Predator and try tuning with that, but I am not sure if you can adjust fueling with it. The only other option is LS1_Edit as far as I know.
I am about to send Moderator Mike's cable off to get 1 more PCM added for Chris - if you want we can get you on board also - cost will be around $250 USD (will have to re-calculate), and also depends on Mike S' permission and your willingness to share the cable with the rest of us. That cost does NOT include dyno time BTW - however you could tune it on the street (I have EFI-Live software you can use to scan the Ltrims)
I am about to send Moderator Mike's cable off to get 1 more PCM added for Chris - if you want we can get you on board also - cost will be around $250 USD (will have to re-calculate), and also depends on Mike S' permission and your willingness to share the cable with the rest of us. That cost does NOT include dyno time BTW - however you could tune it on the street (I have EFI-Live software you can use to scan the Ltrims)
No,
Mike S. actually has a cable and there is room for 3 of us on it, assuming he gives permission. Ask him and if he says yes I will have carputing add your PCM as well as mine and Chris' when I send it in.
Mike S. actually has a cable and there is room for 3 of us on it, assuming he gives permission. Ask him and if he says yes I will have carputing add your PCM as well as mine and Chris' when I send it in.
I agree with Craig's info.
The Pacesetters are fine. Cost was I think about $330 USD for the coated headers (check with LS1Speed, or Redline Performance, etc... they all sell them close to the same).
I bought their y-pipe, but if you are going to use cats, it might be easier to talk to a shop first about custom fabbing a pipe with cats. I intend to run an ORP most of the time, and then install a catted pipe at aircare time (the y-pipe will be flanged at the back to be easily removed from the I-pipe... hopefully no leaks).
Tuning will help. Based on my O2s, I am running slightly richer than before. My guess is 11.5 to 1.
You will need O2 extending wires since your O2 sensors will be relocated further back along the exhaust. Its essentially a jumper cable to give you an extra two feet of length.
If you DON'T run cats, you'll need O2 sims to trick your PCM into thinking that you cats are still there and working. O2 sims essentially send out a constant voltage which simulates the voltage reading of a having a good working cat (and hence avoids SES codes).
You'll need some good exhaust clamps too. If a shop is making your y-pipe, then they'll handle that.
The kit will come with new header bolts and gaskets, but screw them. They aren't good. Go to GM and get a new factory set of gaskets and header bolts. If you got more than 50K on your car, the old ones should be repalced and not reused.
Aircare should be fine with cats, but I haven't tried it.
Install was easy. Get the front end up about 15 inches and it'll be easy (good jack and stands). Might be prepared with a dremel or small grinder just in case the headers rub the k-member on the drivers side. Make sure you have someone help you when you go to bolt in the headers - with the aluminum block, it is too easy to cross thread a bolt, so someone should hold the header in place while you bolt it in (so that no lateral pressure is applied).
The Pacesetters are fine. Cost was I think about $330 USD for the coated headers (check with LS1Speed, or Redline Performance, etc... they all sell them close to the same).
I bought their y-pipe, but if you are going to use cats, it might be easier to talk to a shop first about custom fabbing a pipe with cats. I intend to run an ORP most of the time, and then install a catted pipe at aircare time (the y-pipe will be flanged at the back to be easily removed from the I-pipe... hopefully no leaks).
Tuning will help. Based on my O2s, I am running slightly richer than before. My guess is 11.5 to 1.
You will need O2 extending wires since your O2 sensors will be relocated further back along the exhaust. Its essentially a jumper cable to give you an extra two feet of length.
If you DON'T run cats, you'll need O2 sims to trick your PCM into thinking that you cats are still there and working. O2 sims essentially send out a constant voltage which simulates the voltage reading of a having a good working cat (and hence avoids SES codes).
You'll need some good exhaust clamps too. If a shop is making your y-pipe, then they'll handle that.
The kit will come with new header bolts and gaskets, but screw them. They aren't good. Go to GM and get a new factory set of gaskets and header bolts. If you got more than 50K on your car, the old ones should be repalced and not reused.
Aircare should be fine with cats, but I haven't tried it.
Install was easy. Get the front end up about 15 inches and it'll be easy (good jack and stands). Might be prepared with a dremel or small grinder just in case the headers rub the k-member on the drivers side. Make sure you have someone help you when you go to bolt in the headers - with the aluminum block, it is too easy to cross thread a bolt, so someone should hold the header in place while you bolt it in (so that no lateral pressure is applied).
Originally posted by Camaro ChriSS
Make sure you have someone help you when you go to bolt in the headers - with the aluminum block, it is too easy to cross thread a bolt,
Make sure you have someone help you when you go to bolt in the headers - with the aluminum block, it is too easy to cross thread a bolt,

unless LS1s are different that way !!

so craig and chris i'm looking at $530 bucks for the pacestetter headers, with o2 extensions and the y pipe that is made by them, also they are including free shipping if you buy the whole package, so good or bad deal?
I think its a great deal, if you look at the slp's or the kook's the headers alone can not be found for less then $700, where as to if i get / purchase the pacestetter headers i pay $530 for every thing, seems like its almost to good to be ture, just hope the headers are made with nice quailty, which i;m sure they are since chris was telling me very good things about them. So i guess ill order them very shorty after i talk to mrak about getting them together, thanks for all the help guys
I think its a great deal, if you look at the slp's or the kook's the headers alone can not be found for less then $700, where as to if i get / purchase the pacestetter headers i pay $530 for every thing, seems like its almost to good to be ture, just hope the headers are made with nice quailty, which i;m sure they are since chris was telling me very good things about them. So i guess ill order them very shorty after i talk to mrak about getting them together, thanks for all the help guys
Listen to your friends and have someone hold the headers and thread the bolts into the heads they go in real easy when correct. Make sure they are correct cause they crossthread REALLY easy. I learned the hard way which is the main reason I'm doing a Big *** cam and ported head swap right now.
Also FIT is very important if you want fit EASY to install and great ground clearance. Spend the extra money and buy some Kooks, or maybe some stainless company or what every those cheaper SS headers are called.
NO K-member or block grinding. VERY simple installation they just slide right in couldn't believe it after all the LT1 installs I've done.
Also Predator is not a bad way to go make sure you get it through James at running with the devil so you get free custom programs...
Bobby
Also FIT is very important if you want fit EASY to install and great ground clearance. Spend the extra money and buy some Kooks, or maybe some stainless company or what every those cheaper SS headers are called.
NO K-member or block grinding. VERY simple installation they just slide right in couldn't believe it after all the LT1 installs I've done.
Also Predator is not a bad way to go make sure you get it through James at running with the devil so you get free custom programs...
Bobby


