its all in this thread.

its been going on over the past 2 months or so with my girlfriends car and i cant think of anything else.

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?t=283923

 

Sones like a wiring problem. Is there any fuseable links between the alt and bat, and there any connectors between(and inculding) the alt and bat? I'd replace them or jumper them. Is the alt externaly regulated? If there are replace the regulator it's cheap.

 

Get someone to hold the multimeter on the bat after you have ran the car up. While the voltage is dropping down start pulling fuses. More then likely you have a short or something by pulling the fuses you should be able to determine which circuit is the cause of the drain. Hence when you pull the right fuse the drain should stop. Then focus on that particulair circuit and go from there. But more then likely if the batt has been tested and can hold a load test it should be fine and not the cause of your problem. Did you check console trunk areas for lights remaining on etc. Anyways start with that and good luck
Mike

 

I have checked the console lights and the one under the hood and in the truck. they are all good. but this battery loses voltage just sitting on a table. is it possible that the battery being overcharged that it could have swelled the battery cells enough to make them touch and short out.

 

yeah man your battery is fuct. take it in and show the idiots with the volt meter. get a new battery and you should be fine. you did replace the alternator so your fine there. was it a internal or external regulator? just to make sure you dont overcharge it again.

 

i had already replaced the but didnt know if i had screwed the battery up. but i just got back from crappy tire and i was right. but now i hate them more then before. when i went in yesterday i told the guy the battery was crap and so he goes ok ill test it. so he pulls out this thing i have never seen before and tests it and goes yeah its not that bad, you should still be able to use it. and im thinking, i dont want something that is not bad, i want one that is good. so he goes well it only is at 3 volts so i'll charge it and test it again. and im like why are you trying to charge it at 3 volts it doesnt work. so he says ill call you when its done. no call so i go in later cause i was out and about and he says its only at 8 votls ill call you.again no call. so i go in today and whats it at, still 8 volts. Dumba$$ wasted a whole day of my time so i could be right. im assuming to cells shorted each other out and that is why they wouldnt hold a charge and charge above 8 volts.
This is why i dont like taking **** places, where jobber kid's are hired that know nothing

 

The battery will loose its initial surface charge. A alternator charges a bat at around 13.6 to 14.4 volts. After it charges the battery a surface charge will remain on the battery till a load is put on it or it just wears off as long as the battery sitting on the table does not drop below the 12.4 12.6 volt range it should be enough to crank it. I am presuming that the place load tested the battery if it passed a load test it should be alright. Try what i have said and see what happens.
Later
Mike

 

They replaced the battery already cause it wouldnt charge more then 8 volts. The battery before i took it back would lose 1/2 a volt in about 1/2 hour so 12.5-12.0 in half hour just sitting on a table. it just wouldnt hold a charge at all. if i left it over night i would dro pto like 11.5-11.2
i put the new battery in already and test the draw on it with nothing running and it was only about .15 average so i think, hopefully, my problems are over. If there are 6 cells in the battery each at appx. 2 volts, i would think that the first replcament alternator overcharging the batt. swelled the a couple of the cells enough to touch and short each other. that would explain the 8 volts if there are only 4 working cells left.

 

if it is falling off that fast it is dead but i thought this battery was fairly new. If it was new you still have to find the drain that killed the batt so hook up another and start going through your fuses and find the circuit that is drawing from the batt when the car is off. Otherwise you will just kill the new batt like the two before it. I would actually use the old batt to find the problem since it will suffer from the drain more so then the new batt and should make the faulty circuit easier to find.
Later
Mike

 

i dont think it was a draw that killed the battery. when i replaced the alternator when the first one died, the one i replaced it with was overcharging. i think the overcharging is what killed the battery. i have replaced the alternator again but the battery was having problems since using it with the overcharging alternator. i have checked the draw on the battery with the car off and there is only a small draw about .15 that i would assume is things like the radio and clock. i dont think a draw of .15 is enough to kill a battery that fast.