Greetings
I phoned mopac to get a price. Ouch for the full "regular" package I was looking at 2000 dollars. I think my car is cool enough that a more inexpensive kit can be installed. Brakes work good what ever brand. Thanks for the input. Now to get the clutch and tranny to like each other more.
Originally posted by SSBIRDMAN
I phoned mopac to get a price. Ouch for the full "regular" package I was looking at 2000 dollars. I think my car is cool enough that a more inexpensive kit can be installed. Brakes work good what ever brand. Thanks for the input. Now to get the clutch and tranny to like each other more.
I phoned mopac to get a price. Ouch for the full "regular" package I was looking at 2000 dollars. I think my car is cool enough that a more inexpensive kit can be installed. Brakes work good what ever brand. Thanks for the input. Now to get the clutch and tranny to like each other more.
Don't go to Mopac..they'll charge you out the bum....I just bought a set of Baer GT+ kit....with 14" front rotors and 12.5" rear rotors...1400.00 USD..300.00 less than anyone...you want the same deal? Anyway....as for looks they rock, the front rotors are 1.25 inch's thick and a lifetime warranty on cracking and warping..if you have any question feel free to pm me...and if you want to hold em, touch em, rub em, stroke em....your more than welcome to....BTW, welcome to the board.
Mike
Originally posted by SSBIRDMAN
I phoned mopac to get a price. Ouch for the full "regular" package I was looking at 2000 dollars. I think my car is cool enough that a more inexpensive kit can be installed. Brakes work good what ever brand. Thanks for the input. Now to get the clutch and tranny to like each other more.
I phoned mopac to get a price. Ouch for the full "regular" package I was looking at 2000 dollars. I think my car is cool enough that a more inexpensive kit can be installed. Brakes work good what ever brand. Thanks for the input. Now to get the clutch and tranny to like each other more.
Brakes are important....if one second counts when some bad driver makes a mistakes then you may have saved your car...the stock LS1 brakes are great...the rotors are crap...you may just want to do a rotor upgrade to the eradispeeds...680.00 USD...and they look great zinced, cross drilled and slotted. I have some great hook ups on LS1 stuff....check out www.stealthperf.com, Mike there is a great guy...good luck in your modding fever...
Originally posted by BennyBoy
You mean "I think it's spelled Baer".
Good to see you made your way over here, Richard.
Here is Richards car, for those who want to see it:
Member's Profile
And here is a picture of his car on the dyno:
Car on dyno
I would look into the Baer Eradispeed +1's. The kit includes a larger than stock rotor that is crossdrilled and slotted, and a bracket to move the caliper outwards. The Baer site mentioned that you may need aftermarket wheels to accomodate this system, but maybe a member of this board or a Baer employee can give you more info on that. Baer's site doesn't list a package for the 98+ fbodies, but I swear I saw a kit listed somewhere.
You mean "I think it's spelled Baer".

Good to see you made your way over here, Richard.

Here is Richards car, for those who want to see it:
Member's Profile
And here is a picture of his car on the dyno:
Car on dyno
I would look into the Baer Eradispeed +1's. The kit includes a larger than stock rotor that is crossdrilled and slotted, and a bracket to move the caliper outwards. The Baer site mentioned that you may need aftermarket wheels to accomodate this system, but maybe a member of this board or a Baer employee can give you more info on that. Baer's site doesn't list a package for the 98+ fbodies, but I swear I saw a kit listed somewhere.
You don't need new wheels, although it won't work with anything below 17" wheels...that's the thing I hate about my brakes, I want to run 16" rears for racing but no go for me
I agree with Draco, cross drilled rotors don't disipate heat any better than blancs & in fact may make things worse, also the holes are stress risers & hot spots, heat will concentrate around the hole & will have the biggest heat difference around that area & will also crack right at the holes & to the nearest edge.
Originally posted by Draco
Actually, cross-drilled brake rotors do not improve heat dissipation over blanks. In fact Baer themselves say that cross-drilling by itself is nothing more then cosmetic. In fact, due to the reduced mass of the rotor, the cross-drilled units are capable of absorbing less heat then blanks. After all, brakes work by converting kinetic energy into heat, and with less mass, they can store less heat. Put another way, they actually get hotter then a blank rotor for a given braking distance, and since they "top out" quicker, they suffer from fade earlier, and are more prone to warping/cracking. This is the reason why current Trans Am and Nascar racing setups use slotted rotors.
There are some posters on this board who have cracked their Baer cross-drilled rotors... They may be thick as hell, but cross-drilled rotors are still more susceptible to cracking especially when they are being squeezed by meaty 4-piston calipers.
Actually, cross-drilled brake rotors do not improve heat dissipation over blanks. In fact Baer themselves say that cross-drilling by itself is nothing more then cosmetic. In fact, due to the reduced mass of the rotor, the cross-drilled units are capable of absorbing less heat then blanks. After all, brakes work by converting kinetic energy into heat, and with less mass, they can store less heat. Put another way, they actually get hotter then a blank rotor for a given braking distance, and since they "top out" quicker, they suffer from fade earlier, and are more prone to warping/cracking. This is the reason why current Trans Am and Nascar racing setups use slotted rotors.
There are some posters on this board who have cracked their Baer cross-drilled rotors... They may be thick as hell, but cross-drilled rotors are still more susceptible to cracking especially when they are being squeezed by meaty 4-piston calipers.
Correct Craig, but I agree when used in road racing, but for everyday use and the maybe a rip down the quarter cross drilled are fine.
Originally posted by sleeperZragtop
Correct Craig, but I agree when used in road racing, but for everyday use and the maybe a rip down the quarter cross drilled are fine.
Correct Craig, but I agree when used in road racing, but for everyday use and the maybe a rip down the quarter cross drilled are fine.
LS1 brakes are decent, especially for the street. They have 2-piston front calipers which are much better then the single piston calipers on the LT1 setups. C5 brakes are similar to LS1's except with a larger rotor. I would consider the Baer's to be a step up from the C5s, although not in the same league as some of the beefy Alcon and Brembo setups out there. With these brake packages you do seem to get what you pay for, with the exception of the added cost of cross-drilling (however some people are willing to spend the extra $$$ since they do look awesome and reduce the weight of the rotor).
I would love a set of LS1 or C5 brakes for my car. I think with some fresh rotors and race pads they would work fantastic and aside from possible warping, would be perfectly reasonable for moderate open track race days.
Originally posted by sleeperZragtop
Man, you guys are gonna give me complex...I'm gonna change my system now
Man, you guys are gonna give me complex...I'm gonna change my system now


