Damn ARP bolts..
#1
Damn ARP bolts..
So I get the motor all set up idleing real nice now and just about calling it road worthy and what do I see... I nice pool of water under the motor. The ARP head studs have water coming up the threads. I'm hoping that its just the perimeter bolts that are leaking and not the bolts under the valve cover.
Also found that the clutch master rod is too short... the pedal isn't pushing the rod in all the way so the clutch won't disingage preoperly. Not a huge deal. I'm just going to cut the rod and create a Tie Rod type adjuster on the rod to give it some more length. Then I can actually get the car into gear.
All in all... this is going to set be back a few weeks now. I was hoping to make an appearance at the Dyno Day but that doesn't look like its going to happen.
Also found that the clutch master rod is too short... the pedal isn't pushing the rod in all the way so the clutch won't disingage preoperly. Not a huge deal. I'm just going to cut the rod and create a Tie Rod type adjuster on the rod to give it some more length. Then I can actually get the car into gear.
All in all... this is going to set be back a few weeks now. I was hoping to make an appearance at the Dyno Day but that doesn't look like its going to happen.
#2
uhh .. u did use thread sealer on the head studs right ???
ARP is about the best bolt / stud i can think of . doubt its the bolts fault ! ... hope its something small ! was hoping to see that beast soon
ARP is about the best bolt / stud i can think of . doubt its the bolts fault ! ... hope its something small ! was hoping to see that beast soon
#4
Yeah there is silicone in there. The only thing my machinest could think of was the bolts being slightly smaller than the original cast so the silicone wasn't holding up like it should. Its really not to major. I'm jsut glad I found it before it caused serious damage!
Hopefully it will be done in the first couple weeks of June.
Hopefully it will be done in the first couple weeks of June.
#6
silicone !?? ive never heard any anyone putting silicone in head bolts / studs !!!! i hope u at least used the highest temprature silicone !!!
u really should've used proper thread sealer !!! its white and gooey . there is a brush on the lid that u paint the stuff on ur threads with ... kinda like oldschool white-out .. oh yeah .. sniffing it has the same effects as white-out
u really should've used proper thread sealer !!! its white and gooey . there is a brush on the lid that u paint the stuff on ur threads with ... kinda like oldschool white-out .. oh yeah .. sniffing it has the same effects as white-out
#8
Silicon will not work, you need thread sealant as stated, but ARP studs are known for this, we used head studs on a buddies car, & all the lower studs leaked coolant, we replaced them with regular head bolt, ohh well. Just go back in the same order as before, you don't need to change the head gasket, just take them off in order & reinstall right after the stud is removed, reinstall a bolt if stud/thread sealant won't work for you, it didn't for us.
Studs do have an advantage as they provide more clamping force then a bolt but like I said, the lower bolts leaked coolant, we did'nt bother putting more thread sealant & just replaced them with bolt.
Now I'm repeating myself, enough goodluck!
Studs do have an advantage as they provide more clamping force then a bolt but like I said, the lower bolts leaked coolant, we did'nt bother putting more thread sealant & just replaced them with bolt.
Now I'm repeating myself, enough goodluck!
#9
I dind't install the heads... my machinest did. He said silicone in our conversation... He might have used thread sealant but I'm not sure. He said he would fix it anyway. Good for my wallet but bad for driving time.
#11
Ken, use the thread sealing paste and I promise you if you follow the directions you will not have any problems at all. Dont go cheap on the stuff either, apply the paste all over the threads and youll be fine.
#12
Trust me. Everytime I use thread sealant I put enough on there to the point were it seeps out.
I'm not going to do it anyway. I paid the guy to put them on so he's going to fix it. The only down side is I have have to tow it there and his shops not that big. I'm a little worried about him getting it scratched or even leaving it out side. Of course he'll park it inside at night bu I don't even want the car outside during the day, period!
I'm gotta phone him tomorrow and see if I can get him to pay for the tow out there and lay down some rules if he's going to keep the car for a while.
Doesn't look like the car is going to be drivable until mid June for sure now!
I'm not going to do it anyway. I paid the guy to put them on so he's going to fix it. The only down side is I have have to tow it there and his shops not that big. I'm a little worried about him getting it scratched or even leaving it out side. Of course he'll park it inside at night bu I don't even want the car outside during the day, period!
I'm gotta phone him tomorrow and see if I can get him to pay for the tow out there and lay down some rules if he's going to keep the car for a while.
Doesn't look like the car is going to be drivable until mid June for sure now!
#14
So a little more bad news... The bolts are leaking on the inside too! My oil is starting to get a little milky.
I was going to pull the valve covers off to take a look. So I pulled of the breather amd sure enough there was milky water on the end of it.
Now I definatly need ot get it towed! I'm going to see if the machinest will pay for it. Its not my fault the car need to be towed out there!
I was going to pull the valve covers off to take a look. So I pulled of the breather amd sure enough there was milky water on the end of it.
Now I definatly need ot get it towed! I'm going to see if the machinest will pay for it. Its not my fault the car need to be towed out there!
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