Not sure what you mean by me having "one of the lower number lt1's" ???

 

Hes referring to the 'strength' of the motor based on dyno numbers. Hes inferring that you had a stronger starting point. Like my Z with full exhaust, CAI, underdrives made 295rwhp@5500 and 320rwt@4200 (with a miss), strong for what mods that I have (or so I have been told). Hes just saying that based on his (grygst76) mods and dyno numbers that his LT1 isn't as strong as yours or mine, assuming that you dynod strong closer to stock, as your h/c numbers are awesome.
Brian

 

Oh, I see. A "." between JGeorger and his would have made it clear.

My84Z - are you assuming my car started out strong or have I told you (or did you look at my website)? Sorry but I have trouble putting names to faces....

Anyway, my car mostly stock dynoed 265 rwhp/306 rwtq. This is a factory Ram-Air rated at 305 hp. At the time I had underdrive pulleys, airfoil, K+N, and full synthetics. So that was about 312 at the engine with the M6.... Just about right. These dyno numbers were attained on a different dynojet (P+J's speedshop in Buffalo, NY) than the post heads/cam numbers (which were obtained at NEDT).

Joe

 

Seee now his car with headers full exhaust and a couple other things dyno'd what your did completelly stock. and as we all know with these lt1's and ls1's for some reason some take to mods and some well just don't.

 

Yeah, I see what you're saying. It seems he would have had rockers, headers, cat-back and TB bypass over me. Maf is tricky cause it can screw up your AFR - but it usually serves to lean out the stock overly-rich AFR. grygst76, how was the AFR on your runs?

I know a lot of people gained power switching from shorties to long-tubes.... Also how many miles on the engine? Is it in good condition?

Joe

 

yeah cause unless he has some serious engine problems when he put down those numbers you need some serious race heads and cam to pick up 133 rwhp

 

still got it I'll give it to ya for 25.00 you only though

 

the car has 108,000 miles on it. the opti seized a little while after the dyno run. the a/f was 10.9-11.0 and I did not have the full CAI, my elbow was ripped and letting air in. I went and dyno'd just to see where I was at so more then likely now I am pushing around 280 since I fixed all the problems and replaced my loose as hell timing chain..I'm shocked the thing was still on it was stretched so bad. I know everyone here talks of me not being mad if I do not hit 400 but if you read more I will be doing other things to it as well the cam I'm putting in is your average off the shelf, but it's getting a facelift at my dads machine shop
the heads flow pretty good, but they are also in the shop as we speak getting another massage. I have a stock manifold that is getting port matched to the heads as well. Lot of things to be done and I can do the install myself, BUT I do not have the time it will take for one person to do it. 2 people make it faster.

 

and when I race people it's not stoplight racing...it's at the track you dial it in you run

 

Will it weld right into an LS1 exhaust? How much of an upgrade will it be over the stock muffler? I'l going cheap.....cutout and a muffler....screw the cat back

 

you can have it welded or clamped...your choice and it's a pretty LOUD difference

 

But it'll fit on a stock I-Pipe on an LS1? Does it have tips, or will I use stock ones?

 

I should be right near 400rwhp right now (well, when it runs right). Damn thing gets a new problem everytime I drive it. I did start @ 301rwhp before the heads/cam/LT's/TB/MAF/EW.

 

Hey Gary, what type of muffler is it again?

 

It's a dynomax bullet muffler and its welded to prefit the full loudmouth system when you get rid of the resonator. If you do a search there is some people who made their own loudmouth system and it cost them around 150.00 for everything except you already would have the muffler so it might run you 100.00.