well ive looked at a few different threads with some good info, however im a bit lost on a few things.

basically i was planning on using this diagram...
http://i73.imagethrust.com/images/1V...h-a-relay.html

im pretty sure i know how to wire everything up between the harness, the box andthe factory wiring on the car.... however im a little confused about the wiring for the nitrous system.

heres a quick pic of my box to reference...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...f/DSCN1745.jpg

so heres my questions....

1.i will be using the red power wire to the arming switch so the box will turn on, only when i arm the system correct?

2.the black and green the diagram refers to are the 2 tiny wires coming out with the connectors attached correct?

3. its showing im using the orang wire for ground and to the relay, is this correct?

4. it doesnt show the yellow and violet wires that ive seen people refering to in other posts, do i use these or no?

5.since ill be only activating the box when the system is armed, it will be fine to leave it plugged in and drive around with correct? or do i need to use the bypass connector for this?

thanks for any help at all.

 

You must either have the Hyfire connected and powered or you must use the bypass. You cannot switch the CD ignition on and off with the car running. The small red and black wires must be connected at all times. You cannot use the red 20 gauge wire with a switch.

Yes, the small gauge black and green wires will not be attached to anything.

If you are referring to the instructions and don't see the yellow, orange and violet wires then you are looking at the wrong application. Look at Figure 5 in the instruction book for your wiring.

The violet wire is your RPM window switch just as the diagram you have a link to shows. You can control your arming or complete the ground circuit to the solenoids with this as a ground but be aware that it is rated at 10 amperes only. The better way is to use the violet wire to switch a secondary circuit ground through a relay of at least 30 amperes. With a secondary circuit, you can control both +12 and ground to do basically anything you want.

The yellow wire needs to be connected to a +12 power supply at the time you want your ignition retarded. I do this through the violet wire that is connected to a relay. That way the spark is not retarded until the window switch activates the armed circuit to the solenoids.

You can forget the orange wire for now unless you have some elaborate staging control. This would apply if you have additional circuits and/or devices to manipulate.

 

ok, i dont understand most of what you said.

however, i was under the impression i could arm the system and the timing would retard and window switch activate on the fly. is there a way to do this? also i got the harness and box installed and connected, however not powered up, so i am using the bypass connector now to stay on the stock ignition. is it possible to hook it up so it runs off the mallory box normally, and then only retards timing and activates window switch when i arm the system? basically the same question as before.

 

First, do you have the Mallory 685 Hyfire VI or are we talking about another version of the Mallory? If you have the VI, the diagram you have the link to is not correct regarding the wiring to the Mallory.

Assuming you have the same box as I, you can do just what you have said. When I arm the nitrous system it waits until the RPM hits the lower window and then I have the spark retarded and the solenoids open. However, the Mallory must be connected. It cannot be turned on and off while the engine is running. It must either be on when you start the engine or bypassed.

 

i have this one...
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...48468_-1_48546

is that diagram i posted for a DIFFERENT mallory box?

also, i have no problem running the box normally, but i want it to only retard and activate window when i arm it, and i dont wanna have to be connected and disconnecting the bypass harness. i can do what i am hoping then with this right?

i plan on using a single relay as well with the mallory box, a WOT switch, the arming switch of coarse and thats all as far as activation goes.

 

We have the same Mallory ignition. You do not need to bypass the Mallory. You can have it on all the time. I do not think the wiring diagram shown is correct for your box. The ORANGE wire is a staging control input and there is no need to use the tach signal wire unless you have something special.

You can have the Mallory retard timing as soon as you arm the nitrous by connecting +12 volts to the yellow wire but I chose not to do this because I would lose performance before the low rpm window is achieved.

With the Hyfire there is more than one way to skin a cat. I don't want to confuse you because I'm thinking someone else has given you better ideas on how to make a simpler circuit to get the job done.

I use the violet wire to activate a relay when the low rpm window creates a ground. The relay then feeds +12 volts to the solenoids and also to the yellow Mallory input wire. This then causes the timing to be retarded while the window is open. I wish I could draw a picture of how mine operates because a text description gets too long and bogged down.

 

Seems to me that I sent you a detailed color coded schematic of a Mallory 685/Nitrous setup?

 

yes, however its only saved to my other computer which i cant use right now, and i would like to use only one relay.

 

You got mail. This should help out.

 

thanks a ton troy with that good info, i actually called my buddy over friday night and he set it up for me with wiring and it works exactly how i wanted it, so i have his genius wiring skills to thank for that.

excellent plug info tho, much thanks for that email.

 

Not a problem.

 

can you fwd me that email too? id like to see the diagram etc.
michael_w_ma (a t) hotmail (dot) com

 

You Got Mail

 

Id like that email too lol. thanks in advance. i just boguht a mallory and a harris nitrous kit so any info would be great as ive never installed one before.

 

Thank you, sir.